Hive multi zone danfoss WB12

[Paddi8764]

Hi there.

Hoping for a bit of help. I have a danfoss multi zone system and want to replace it with a hive. I have already wired in the control by the boiler and both heating and hot water seem to be working fine. I'm struggling upstairs with the WB12. I've worked out which valve controls the valve for zone 2, but can't work out how to wire this into my second hive control. The picture of the 4 wires is from the motorized valve,

the other is the WB12 as normal
.
Any help appreciated!!

 

[stem]

I have already wired in the control by the boiler and both heating and hot water seem to be working fine.

I assuming by this, that you mean that one of the heating zones (downstairs?) and the hot water are working, it's the second zone (upstairs?) that you are now wishing to add. If so, normally the second Hive receiver (single channel) simply replaces the existing room thermostat, no need to change the wiring to the motorised valve.

 

[Paddi8764]

Stem thanks for the reply. Yes zone 1 heating and hot water down stairs is working. I replaced the boiler control with the hive receiver and have disconnected the original thermostat and I'm using the wireless hive one in it's place.

I've read on other posts that I should be wiring my second receiver in by the danfoss wb12 which is in the airing cupboard, then I use a second hive stat to create a second zone? If I just wired a receiver in then how woukd I be able to control the temperature as i'd just have a receiver on the wall in my bedroom?

 

[stem]

You can do it that way, but for DIY it's easier as below without disturbing the wiring centre. There are a couple of options for you. The first is the easiest, but the receiver will be on show.

Both options assume that the existing thermostat cable is three core, so includes a 'neutral' which the Hive receiver needs. Not all thermostats need this but it is usually still included to make things future proof. In which case it may not be connected at the other end. If it doesn't have a spare 3rd core then the cable will need replacing, but it is just a matter of replacing the existing cable connections 'like for like' plus a neutral.

 

[Paddi8764]

Stem,

Thanks for that. I think I'd like to have the receiver hidden and the stat on display. My issue is now the wiring from the wiring center into the hive receiver. Is it the valve that I should be wiring in, or something different?

 

[stem]

There is no need to do anything with the motorised valve wiring. It is the thermostat you are changing. The motorised valve doesn't change.

Edit:
I see you have already disconnected the motorised valve wiring, So you need to put it back as it was and find the cable from the upstairs thermostat. I cannot see all of the wires and where they go, but if the brown wire to the motorised valve for upstairs is in the far right terminal, the wire at the bottom of the same terminal will come from the thermostat as highlighted below. Can you confirm this, and if this is correct identify where the other wire(s) in the same cable go?

 

[Paddi8764]

There is no need to do anything with the motorised valve wiring. It is the thermostat you are changing. The motorised valve doesn't change.

Ah, I understand now. So it's just a case of chasing the thermostat wires from the bedroom back to the wiring hub. Do you know if I can use a dual channel receiver, or should I get rid and it and get a single channel one? Is there a way to by pass the dual channel element?

 

[Paddi8764]

There is no need to do anything with the motorised valve wiring. It is the thermostat you are changing. The motorised valve doesn't change.

Edit:
I see you have already disconnected the motorised valve wiring, So you need to put it back as it was and find the cable from the upstairs thermostat. I cannot see all of the wires and where they go, but if the brown wire to the motorised valve for upstairs is in the far right terminal, the wire at the bottom of the same terminal will come from the thermostat as highlighted below. Can you confirm this, and if this is correct identify where the other wire(s) in the same cable go?

View attachment 149556

Yep, they've been put back. I'll have a look this weekend.

 

[stem]

Ah, I understand now. So it's just a case of chasing the thermostat wires from the bedroom back to the wiring hub.

That's the idea, it can be identified by what it is connected to at the wiring cenre. One of the thermostat wires will be connected to the motorised valve brown (live), hence my earlier question.

Do you know if I can use a dual channel receiver, or should I get rid and it and get a single channel one? Is there a way to by pass the dual channel element?

You can use a dual channel version. The hot water bit will show on the app, but it won't actually be doing anything. More professional to use a single channel though.

 

[Paddi8764]

That's the idea, it can be identified by what it is connected to at the wiring cenre. One of the thermostat wires will be connected to the motorised valve brown (live), hence my earlier question.


You can use a dual channel version. The hot water bit will show on the app, but it won't actually be doing anything. More professional to use a single channel though.

Cool. Thanks for the help!

 

[Paddi8764]

My situation seems to have become a little more complicated. The hive boiler control downstairs seemed to be working fine, but in actual fact it wasn't. I think I need to bypass the old thermostat, is it just a simple case of joing the live and black wires together and then using the hive thermostat? Also should that earth wire have some sort of sheath on it?

 

[stem]

You are right. The brown and black which are the live switching wires should be joined together and the neutral isolated. The old wired thermostat can't simply be disconnected as this would leave the heating wiring 'open circuit' and the heating will not operate.

The correct / professional way to do it would be:

1) Trace the thermostat cable from the thermostat back to find its origin.
2) Make a note where the wires from the thermostat cable are connected, then disconnect all of the wires and remove the cable.
3) Add a wire to link the two terminals where the black and brown thermostat wires previously originated from so that they remain electrically connected.

Yes the earth wire should have a green / yellow sleeve on it, but it doesn't matter if you are removing the cable and getting rid of it.

Alternatively, if you are happy to leave the old thermostat in place, you could put both the black and brown wires in the 'L' terminal, and remove the link between Com and L.

A third option, some folks simply leave the old stat set to its maximum setting.

 

[Paddi8764]

Stem,

Thanks again for the reply! I've connected the live and the black and isolated the neutral at the thermostat. I'll have a look upstairs Tomorrow in daylight and see if I can find trace the wiring.

 

[Paddi8764]

Stem,

Thanks again for the reply! I've connected the live and the black and isolated the neutral at the thermostat. I'll have a look upstairs Tomorrow in daylight and see if I can find trace the wiring.

This seems to have set my boiler to permanently on. The boiler is fired up although both the upstairs and down stairs are set to off, and the hot water is also off. There are also no lights lit up on the bolier control indicating that the boiler should be on.

 

[stem]

Then it appears that the Hive / Hives are not controlling the heating properly, suggesting that one of them is not wired in correctly, or set up properly.

It's difficult because we don't know what you have done, but if you can't resolve it, all I can suggest that you remove the Hives, put everything back as it originally was, and then when it is working properly, we can advise from the beginning on how to install the Hives.