S Plan Help

[sg@940]

Heating didn't always switch off, when you checked the lever it was open and had to be shut by hand. The valve feels fine no resistance etc

 

[Terrywookfit]

Unplug the valve and test the resistance across br and bl on the valve plug Also the voltage BR / Bl at the socket

 

[DP]

Heating didn't always switch off, when you checked the lever it was open and had to be shut by hand. The valve feels fine no resistance etc

If the valve is open because there is 240 volts to the valve on brown and blue, moving the lever will not close the valve.

If no 240 volts on brown and blue and boiler is still running then another valve could be applying the demand on the boiler

If none of the valves have 240 volts between respective brown and blue, check if you have froststat that can do that.

if froststat not fitted, boiler still running, I would power down and look for continuity between grey and orange. If yes, locate which valve. Head could be faulty as could the body.

You keep showing 118 volts on the brown and blue wires with timer calling.

What rating of fuse do you have in the spur. Just because the red light is on on the programmer does not automatically mean you will have 240 volts on the sure that is shining 118 volts.

It is courteous to thank those that have taken time out to render assistance. See the OP clearly lacking in that department.

 

[sg@940]

240 volts but, not getting a meaningful resistance measurement

 

[ianmcd]

where did you buy the replacement actuator ?

 

[sg@940]

See the OP clearly lacking in that department.
Not sure what means?
Apologies for not ticking the thanks tag, have now addressed that

 

[sg@940]

I purchased it from plumbing supplies shop online, I don't recall the name. For the£35-£40 they cost I will pick up another and give it a try

 

[DP]

240 volts but, not getting a meaningful resistance measurement

Going back to post 41, brown wire restored to brown instead of bunched with grey, timer red light on, do you see 240 volts between brown and blue in that plug?

 

[ianmcd]

yes that is about the correct price for them, lots of chinese replicas going about, not saying you have one, but ebay full of them

 

[sg@940]

Wires restore, programmer calling for heat and 240 volts between brown and blue at the plug

 

[sg@940]

I was hoping that avoiding eBay and using a specialist suppliers the knock off copies would be avoided lol who knows but it easy enough to try another

 

[ianmcd]

is the valve opening ? do you know how to check ? see if the manual lever moves freely with the 240v present, if resistance when sliding it then valve isnt open

 

[sg@940]

When I open the valve manually all is good, the boiler fires and I get heating. It just looks like the instruction from the programmer isn't getting to the valve. The H/W side of it works perfectly

 

[Terrywookfit]

Try removing Br & Bl from plug and check resistance again across wires Normal is 2 - 2.5 k.

 

[ianmcd]

if you are getting 240v between blue and brown then the programmer and the temp sensor are fine