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Hive stat
- Thread starter CAESAR32
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Yes, but probably best with changing existing programmer if there is one, or wiring at the wiring center. You’ll also need a dual and single channel Hive. Whereas the Drayton Wiser does a 3 channel (x2 Heating and hot water). Yes, existing is live and switched. If you wanted the receiver in place of that, you need to confirm there’s a permanent live and a permanent neutral.
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Programmable room thermostats, so in a sense, yes they are. In which case, better in the wiring center for the Hive, if you’re still planning on it.
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Yes, or trace the wires at existing to ascertain if they’re connected. If they are then you can utilise them, if not, connect at the wiring center and receivers can go there. Personally I think it would be easier to change at the wiring center. If you want an all round easier solution without changing wires, then change for mains switching battery operated programmable thermostats. I don’t understand a lot about people wanting Hive.
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There are two types of thermostat/programmer wiring wise, those with volt free contacts, and those where the contacts are connected to the supply to the device.
Any electronic thermostat/programmer must get power from somewhere, be it battery or mains, with built-in mains power supply or external mains power supply. Nest is the odd one out, with external mains power supplies (USB) and battery powered hubs (Nest e) but Nest does not connect to TRV heads so rather a poor thermostat.
The Hive/Wiser/Honeywell etc use a common baseplate,
I don't like the idea as put the wrong unit on the baseplate, and you can get 24 volts and 230 volts connected together, but it has been used for many years, so unlikely to change in a hurry. But the single channel version is volt free.
So with the single channel version, you could get the supply from elsewhere, not a good idea, as if you want to run heating from a generator at any time, it means you have not got a single supply point, but the same applies with the likes of Nest when it uses a USB supply.
So I have 10 zones, to make the zones I use both hard-wired motorised valves, and wireless motorised valves (electronic TRV heads) the hard-wired valves separate main house from flat, within the main house, I use the wireless valves, the whole idea of the Wiser and Hive system is we can use the electronic TRV heads to create many zones, and there is little point having zones within zones, and you need to decide if you're going to fit electronic TRV heads do you still want the old three zone system?
My domestic hot water (DHW) is heated when the central heating is running, I can't stop it, C Plan, but I never use the boiler to heat DHW in the summer, for me that's an expensive option, I have the option for emergency, but it is never used, the reduction in oil use is huge, DHW is either heated with off-peak or solar, both far cheaper than oil.
So step one is to work out what you want? Then the best way to do it. I have learnt from mistakes, not all mine, I was told Nest worked with Energenie TRV heads, that is not the case, but the Wiser hub can be at the boiler, it does not need to be even in the same house, my Wiser hub is in the flat, with the boiler, but it controls the heating to the main house, I have one linked wall thermostat, and one linked TRV head, plus a socket adaptor as the TRV is out of range, so socket adaptor boosts the signal.
I hope you will not make same mistakes to me. I stuck a Nest thermostat in the hall, only to find the hall cools too slowly, since hard-wired, not easy to move, could use USB to power it, but then would not work in a power cut, my solar and battery would not power the thermostat.
As it is, loss of DNO supply will not stop central heating or freezers from working. This all needs considering, even if solar may be 5/10 years down the line.
Any electronic thermostat/programmer must get power from somewhere, be it battery or mains, with built-in mains power supply or external mains power supply. Nest is the odd one out, with external mains power supplies (USB) and battery powered hubs (Nest e) but Nest does not connect to TRV heads so rather a poor thermostat.
The Hive/Wiser/Honeywell etc use a common baseplate,
I don't like the idea as put the wrong unit on the baseplate, and you can get 24 volts and 230 volts connected together, but it has been used for many years, so unlikely to change in a hurry. But the single channel version is volt free.So with the single channel version, you could get the supply from elsewhere, not a good idea, as if you want to run heating from a generator at any time, it means you have not got a single supply point, but the same applies with the likes of Nest when it uses a USB supply.
So I have 10 zones, to make the zones I use both hard-wired motorised valves, and wireless motorised valves (electronic TRV heads) the hard-wired valves separate main house from flat, within the main house, I use the wireless valves, the whole idea of the Wiser and Hive system is we can use the electronic TRV heads to create many zones, and there is little point having zones within zones, and you need to decide if you're going to fit electronic TRV heads do you still want the old three zone system?
My domestic hot water (DHW) is heated when the central heating is running, I can't stop it, C Plan, but I never use the boiler to heat DHW in the summer, for me that's an expensive option, I have the option for emergency, but it is never used, the reduction in oil use is huge, DHW is either heated with off-peak or solar, both far cheaper than oil.
So step one is to work out what you want? Then the best way to do it. I have learnt from mistakes, not all mine, I was told Nest worked with Energenie TRV heads, that is not the case, but the Wiser hub can be at the boiler, it does not need to be even in the same house, my Wiser hub is in the flat, with the boiler, but it controls the heating to the main house, I have one linked wall thermostat, and one linked TRV head, plus a socket adaptor as the TRV is out of range, so socket adaptor boosts the signal.
I hope you will not make same mistakes to me. I stuck a Nest thermostat in the hall, only to find the hall cools too slowly, since hard-wired, not easy to move, could use USB to power it, but then would not work in a power cut, my solar and battery would not power the thermostat.
As it is, loss of DNO supply will not stop central heating or freezers from working. This all needs considering, even if solar may be 5/10 years down the line.
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Yes, pretty much. Lots on the market, Nest E, Drayton, Honeywell, Esi, EPH to name a few
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