Hive Thermostat --> Ideal Logic Combi 24

[michal268]

Hi,

I hope I can enlist the help of some of the kind experts who read these pages.

I have bought a Hive Active Heating system to connect to my Ideal Logic Combi 24. I thought it might be a relatively easy matter as the system is already fitted with a Altech Thermostat in living room. Unfortunately I am a bit lost now after I've disassembled it.

Included is an image of the present connections to the thermostat. Brown lead is attached to the L connector. Its showing some strange (110) Voltage. Black leads is connected to SL connector. Obviously the last one is just connected to earth tether. The last one (gray) isn't connected at all.

I assume as there is N (neutral) missing there is no way to connect my receiver there. Am I right ?

That's a view on my connections in a boiler. Unfortunately current thermostat is in a different room ~12m from a boiler and all wires from boiler to thermostat aren't accessible.

The other issue I am having is a fact that accidentally I've bought Hive Thermostat with a Dual Channel Receiver. I can easily return it and but Single Channel. Nevertheless I've read that it might be possible to still use Dual Channel Receiver.

From this, could someone please let me know what are my possibilities ? Is there any option to connect Hive Receiver in a place where my current thermostat is ? If not and I have to connect Receiver directly to a boiler, should I order Single Channel Receiver or I can use the one I already have ? Before some people will criticize me and advise to get some engineer to do it for me. Yes I will but once I will be sure that Receiver has to be connected directly to boiler and there aren't any other options. But if that will be a case I have to still know which type of receiver I have to have before I'll book engineer appointment.

Sorry for my poor English. I am trying my best

 

[stem]

A thermostat is just a switch, so when the existing thermostat switches 'on', the two terminals (L) 'live' and (SL) 'switched live' are connected together, the voltage doesn't matter to the thermostat it will switch whatever is connected to it. The Hive Single Channel version is no different. So...

The brown wire presently in (L) 'live' would go to the Hive Single Channel (1) 'Common'
The black wire presently in (SL) 'switched live' would go to the Hive Single Channel (3) 'Heating on'

In addition to the above the Hive receiver also needs 230V to power it. This 230V N & L should come from the same 3A fused spur that also supplies the boiler.

The problem with the dual channel receiver is that it is really designed to provide 230V to operate motorised valves, not the boiler directly, so there isn't the option for the other voltages that Combi boilers sometimes use. In your case 110V is indeed unusual, but strange readings can be obtained because of other components in circuit effecting them. However if it works now and you go for the Single Version of the Hive as I describe you are just changing one voltage free switch for another, so electrically from the boilers point of view, nothing will have changed.

No problem with your English by the way, it's better than some of the natives.

 

[michal268]

Thanks for fast reply !

So if I understood you correct I still need to get 230V to supply receiver. As I said there is just 4 core wire where my current thermostat is and only 3 cores are in use. That means that I can’t get 230V there (even if I would find ‘boiler’ end of this wire) as I would need another 2 wires when only one is free.

What I can do is connecting receiver directly to a boiler but that still means I need ‘volt free’ single receiver. Could you just confirm that my thinking is correct ?

I am trying my best with English but for example I asked natives about a difference between words lead/wire/cable and all of them had different opinions about

 

[stem]

So if I understood you correct I still need to get 230V to supply receiver.

Yes. The existing thermostat is mechanical in operation, but the Hive receiver needs 230V to provide it with operating power.

As I said there is just 4 core wire where my current thermostat is and only 3 cores are in use. That means that I can’t get 230V there (even if I would find ‘boiler’ end of this wire) as I would need another 2 wires when only one is free.

If, and only if, the existing wire in 'L' is actually 230V (and not anything else) then you can also use it as the 'L' supply for the Hive. If the other end of the grey wire can be found and connected to the neutral at the boilers 3A fused supply, then you can use that for the Hive neutral.

Wire 4 that is the un-insulated wire with the green sleeve on is an earth, and should not used for anything else.

What I can do is connecting receiver directly to a boiler but that still means I need ‘volt free’ single receiver. Could you just confirm that my thinking is correct ?

As above. If, and only if, the existing wire in 'L' is actually 230V (and not anything else) then you could use the dual channel version and just connect the central heating part. It's not really professional and the app will show hot water control that does not do anything. Of course you would still need to make the neutral connection.

Probably, the safest, most professional and easiest way to DIY, is to use a single channel hive and:
Put the brown wire to Hive (1) 'Common'
Put the black wire to Hive (3) 'Heating on'
Install a new cable between the Hive receiver and the 3A fused spur supplying the boiler for the N & L 230V supply.

 

[michal268]

So I bought Single Receiver.

I've plugged receiver directly to a boiler that:



From a left:

1 ---> 1 on receiver (Common)
2 ---> 3 on receiver
3(L)-> L on receiver
4(N)->N on receiver
5(Earth tether)-> Earth Tether on receiver.


Everything seems to work properly expect one annoying thing that boiler has about 1 min delay in going off. Are there any chances to change it?
Could that be because of wrong connection between boiler and receiver ? If yes how I should have change them ?

Thanks again foe your help.

 

[stem]

Sounds like it is wired in properly. The photo below should represent your boiler wiring shown with a 230V mains supply connected.

The MAINS N shown above should also be connected to the Hive N

The MAINS L shown above should also be connected to the Hive L

Where the wire link is shown on the right (ROOM STAT TIMER) the link should be removed and the two terminals connected to Hive (1) Common and (3) heating on, it doesn't matter which way around they go.

How the Hive now controls the boiler is a function of the Hive.