Hive with Ideal Logic+ Combi C30

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Hello DIYers

I made a similar post a few days ago that didn't get any helpful information back. I though I would update where I have got to, rather than continue on with that one. I am aware that I should not be removing the cover of the boiler and accept all risks in doing so. That said, the boiler's annual service will be completed in the next week.

I have L/N/E coming from the mains into my boiler. The boiler is currently using the Ideal wireless thermostat. I have disconnected the accompanying programmer from the boiler.

Using heatproof flex I have connected the Hive receiver to the boiler as follows:

N in Hive receiver to N at the boiler
L in Hive receiver to L at the boiler end
I have removed the red cable at the boiler end that bridges the room/stat connection
I have run a cable from the room/stat connection at the boiler to 1 in the Hive receiver.
I have run an additional cable from the other room/stat connection at the boiler to 3 in the Hive receiver.

I then put the boiler cover back on and powered it all on. The Hive receiver turned on everything worked (in terms of the Hive thermostat connected and all was controllable from the app) but.....I am unable to turn on the heat...

I've no idea why this isn't working - what have I missed?

I did read about bridging the L and 1 in the receiver to create a common wire, but this also didn't work.

Thanks in advance!
 
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that is because you need to make a link of the two wires from the origional programmer in the boiler, the COM and NO wires, dont make any links in the hive you could damage the boiler PCB
 
that is because you need to make a link of the two wires from the origional programmer in the boiler, the COM and NO wires, dont make any links in the hive you could damage the boiler PCB

Hi understood. So where exactly do I do this? Should I put the wire bridge back in at the boiler end, like in this photo? Or, do I bridge them on the white connector I disconnected from wireless receiver? If the former, obviously this photo does not show the wires connected to 1 & 3.

In case its not clear, I am assuming I need to bridge the COM and NO wires in the molex connector that joined the original programmer?
 

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Thanks. The first picture shows the cables I have connected to the receiver. Second shows the Molex connector that went into the wireless programmer.
 

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also just attached the relevant pages from the installation book of the boiler...in case that helps.
 

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easyiest way is plug the inbuilt timer back in and set it to constantly on and your Hive will over ride it
 
The problem is, the actual programmer part is built into the thermostat, so I can't just turn it on as the thermostat needs power, and therefore you have to set a temp etc. Does this make sense?
 
Could you set the timer to constant and thermostat to max, then use the Hive to control the temp?
 
The problem is, the actual programmer part is built into the thermostat, so I can't just turn it on as the thermostat needs power, and therefore you have to set a temp etc. Does this make sense?
Post a pic of what you are calling the thermostat and programmer
 
So I have now got this working - but as suggested with the old receiver connected and the thermostat plugged in. I have had to put the old thermostat at maximum and the always-on for it all to work. Annoying that I will have to keep this hanging around and full of batteries...
 
Are you not just able to join the live and switched live?
 

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