Hive wiring advice

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I was thinking of replacing my existing thermostat with a hive active heating kit. I currently have a Baxi Duo-tec combi 28 HE x boiler and siemens rcr10 433/gb receiver. I have included a image of how the current one is wired below(apologies for how large the image is). There is also a green/blue wire that is not connected. But that has not been connected for more than 18 months that I have been living in the current house. The manual for wiring it looks like it is at: https://w3.siemens.co.uk/buildingte...ls/documentation/Documents/RDH10RFSETData.pdf

I was looking for advice of how to wire it and if it is compatible.

upload_2017-5-8_19-58-3.png
 
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Yes the Baxi is compatible and usually a combi with a receiver hooked up to a programmable thermostat is one of the easiest to swap over.

However, according to your link to the Siemens documentation, you have a Siemens RDH10RF room thermostat like the picture below linked to your receiver, which is not a 'programmable' thermostat.

RDH10.jpg

So, if the RDH10RF doesn't provide any time control, what does?
 
I don't like admitting it, however in hind sight I got it wrong. I like you with the Hive went for a half hearted option rather than biting the bullet and going the whole hog. The best option with a water system is to let the eTRV control the rooms and for them to also connect to a hub which in turns controls the boiler, EvoHome is a good example, with hot air systems like used in the USA then because the air circulates in the house a single thermostat will control the whole house at one set temperature, however with the hot water system used in the UK each room can be individually controlled, and the boilers are designed to be controlled by the TRV, they have variable flame height and the return water temperature controls the flame height, so while the TRV is controlling you have a adapting system which has a very low hysteresis.

However there is a problem, when spring arrives the boiler will start cycling as the heating is using less than minimum flame height will allow, so we fit wall thermostats to turn off the system as the days warm up. However the thermostat needs to hand shake with the TRV, there are many ways to get the hand shaking the simple one is to set the wall thermostat either in a room without a TRV or at the same temperature as the TRV, with the latter you can see the problem, although the Hive or Nest thermostat may be settable with a computer or phone, the standard TRV is not, so then you start looking at eTRV's instead.

Every house is different, there is no one size fits all, however in my mothers house I found rooms were slow heating and cooling and although I could set the eTRV to change temperature every half hour, the room will simply not change that quick, set the room at 16°C from evening setting of 20°C over night, and 6 am it has still not fully cooled down before you are wanting it to return to 18°C for the day, unless something like the EvoHome the boiler may not fire up for more than 1/2 an hour which is not enough for house to warm up again, all my big ideas of saving money by only using what I needed simply did not work.

After buying the gear I did not really want to dump it and start again, and after a lot of careful monitoring I have got it to sort of work, but it has a fixed program as to when the rooms heat and cool as although the eTRV is a "If This Then That" ITTT device, the thermostat and programmer is not, and it takes so long to heat and cool all the big ideas of using a phone have gone out of the window.

Learn from my error, either cheap option and simple programmable thermostat, or whole hog and something like EvoHome, the half way option is a waste of money, it's all or nothing.
 
Thanks for the info. The control unit is a RDJ10RF unit.Looking at the image from above that is only showing 4 wires while it appears the Hive unit on their manual online requires 5 wires. Just unsure with the LX connection if that should go to the common connection on a Hive. As well the current one seems to not have a connection for switching heating off (L2) and was seeing if the Hive would still operate if that connection is not connected up.

Since I mainly have a small house I thought a Hive would be enough, as most of the time one room in mainly used. Just I was under the impression that unit I mentioned in this post would control the temperature for if the boiler is on or not. As I thought it was a boolean true or false if it is on.
 
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You do only need 4 wires. The wiring at the existing receiver can be identified from your photograph as follows:

Blue wire = Permanent Neutral
Brown wire = Permanent Live
Grey wire (LX) = Common
Black wire (L1) = Heating On

If / when you get a Hive, the four wires go to the terminals in the Hive receiver that are marked accordingly. You don't need a connection to 'Heating Off' as you don't have one now (L2)

But you didn't answer the question about the time control, is there a timeswitch somewhere else?
 
Sorry, RDH10RF, does have time controls on it. Only has 24 hour time control. So it has the same pattern as on weekend as a weekday. It as A1=heating on, A2=heating off, A3=heating on, A4=heating off. For each of the A ones it asks for a set time for that to happen, and then when run is selected it runs that pattern if it is set to automatically come on and come upto a nighttime or daytime temperature depending if the heating mode on the RDH10RF is set to keep above daytime or nighttime temperature.
 
OK thanks for the update. Then you only need to exchange the existing receiver for the Hive (single channel version) no further modifications are required to your system.
 

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