Hob/Oven wiring

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I Am about to replace my single oven with a bosch which is rated at 16amp (3.5kw).At present the old oven and hob is on a 32 amp breaker connected via a 6mm cable with 2 separate connection units.Is it Ok to connect the oven 3.5KW and hob which has a total rating Of 6.5kw on the same 32amp breaker or will I need a separate circuit
 
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It will be fine.

Have a search around this section, the same question comes up every few days and there are a few very thorough explanations that should put your mind at rest about this.
 
I Am about to replace my single oven with a bosch which is rated at 16amp (3.5kw).At present the old oven and hob is on a 32 amp breaker connected via a 6mm cable with 2 separate connection units.Is it Ok to connect the oven 3.5KW and hob which has a total rating Of 6.5kw on the same 32amp breaker or will I need a separate circuit
Diversity allows for up to 15kW on a 32A cooker circuit. So if cable is 6mm, you should be okay to install the new appliance with hob.
 
Just removed my old fan oven and this has been connected via a 13 amp connection unit spurred off the hob supply.Now as the new oven needs 16amp whats the proper way to connect this do I just use 6mm cable spured unfused or can I get a dedicated 16amp oven connection unit.Any help please
 
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You said that the original oven/hob was connected via two separate 'connection units'. I assume that means cooker connection unit.
If so connect to this.
Just make sure that the cable (if not already fitted) used by the new oven/hob meets the manufacturers requirements (as outlined in their instructions)- normally heat resistant and minimum of 2.5mm three core flex.
They don't make 16A oven connection units - as far as I know.
 
Ok so just wire the oven in to the 45amp connection unit along with the hob .I will remove the 13 amp fused connection unit completely.So no fusing down is required then for the oven then
 
Ok so just wire the oven in to the 45amp connection unit along with the hob .I will remove the 13 amp fused connection unit completely.So no fusing down is required then for the oven then
We just need to get the correct terms here to avoid confusion.
The 45A is normally referred to the cooker (red) switch - which sometimes comes with its own socket - is this what you are talking about?
Looks like this:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_In...ate_Index/Ultimate_Cooker_Switches/index.html
When I wire up a cooker circuit - I would run 6mm² T&E from the 32A MCB in the Consumer Unit to the Cooker Switch - then another 6mm² T&E from the cooker switch to the cooker connection unit - normally fitted behind or to the side of the oven. From the Cooker connection unit I then run the manufacturers sized cable to the oven/hob itself.

There is nothing however to stop you running the oven/hob cable directly to the cooker switch.
 
Right sorry if I confused you .I have exactly as you say here

20131012_121806_zpsd71bd919.jpg
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The 13 amp connection unit was where the old oven was connected.Could I just replace that with a 20 amp flex outlet plate for the oven[/img]
 
Okay that is a cooker connection unit(CCU) on the left and obviously a Fused connection unit(FCU) on the right.
It looks as if the FCU is connected to the CCU via a 2.5mm² T&E minimum (could be 4mm).
Personally I would remove the FCU and the wiring link to the CCU and replace the CCU with this unit:
http://www.alertelectrical.com/prod...5a-easyfit-dual-appliance-cooker-outlet-plate
This will accommodate both cables and easily attaches to the existing backbox - very simple to install and lots of space for the cables.
Two other options - replace the FCU with a CCU and wire the oven into that.
Or remove the FCU and the associated wiring and put both the oven and the hob on the load side of the CCU.
 
Thanks as the oven is coming tomorrow I have just replaced the 13 amp FCU for a CCU and bought the 2.5 heat resistant flex and will use that.Like the idea of the double CCU but couldent find one local.thanks for your help
 

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