Honeywell Lyric T6R-HW Thermostat Install

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Hi,

I was given a Honeywell Lyric T6R-HW Thermostat and wanted to install at my parents as I already have a hive system. Haven't done a self install before, looking for some advice - attached are some pictures of the set up. Firstly, would the T6R-HW be compatible? Secondly, if it is am I right in thinking that the Drayton Digistat SCR needs to be decommissioned (not sure how to do that!) and the Honeywell would replace the unit in the second pic?

Many thanks in advance!
 

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Yes looks compatible. So yes you'd remove the Drayton digistat receiver and fit the Honeywell receiver in its place swapping the wires over.
 
... and also remove the existing programmer (or at least link it out)
 
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Thanks for the prompt really, already been a million times more helpful than Honeywell support!

But a bit confused as I thought it would have been the other way around, as in swapping out the existing programmer and decommissions the Drayton as doesn’t look like that controls the hot water?
 
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Hi eric7cantona

You are correct. The T6R-HW receiver box replaces the existing programmer to provide control of the heating and hot water...

Capture.JPG


...and the Drayton Digistat thermostat receiver is 'linked out' to complete the circuit. The simplest way to do that is leave the receiver and its wiring in place and simply add a link between terminals 1 & 3 to electrically connect them.

a.JPG


Alternatively, trace the wires back from SCR terminals 1 & 3 to their origin and note where they are connected. Then disconnect the entire cable to the SCR and remove it. The two terminals that you have just removed the wires going to 1 & 3 from should now be linked together so that they are electrically connected and complete the circuit.
 
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Hi eric7cantona

You are correct. The T6R-HW receiver box replaces the existing programmer to provide control of the heating and hot water...

View attachment 184232

...and the Drayton Digistat thermostat receiver is 'linked out' to complete the circuit. The simplest way to do that is leave the receiver and its wiring in place and simply add a link between terminals 1 & 3 to electrically connect them.

View attachment 184233

Alternatively, trace the wires back from SCR terminals 1 & 3 to their origin and note where they are connected. Then disconnect the entire cable to the SCR and remove it. The two terminals that you have just removed the wires going to 1 & 3 from should now be linked together so that they are electrically connected and complete the circuit.

Thank you! Will give it a go and hopefully get it up and running!
 
The old programmer looks like a Landis & Staefa (Later Siemens) RWB9. (Details should be printed on the drop down door) If so, the RWB9 connections are as below....

rwb9.JPG


The above terminals correspond with the T6R-HW as follows....

capture-jpg.184232


Only the wires currently connected need to be moved. Don't worry if there are some terminals without any wires in.

The main E, N & L supply is common to both items, so a straight transfer over.

RWB9 wire(s) in 1 HW off = T6R-HW F - [This terminal might / might not be used depending on the type of heating system]
RWB9 wire(s) in 2 CH off = T6R-HW C - [This terminal is unlikely to be used]
RWB9 wire(s) in 3 HW on = T6R-HW E
RWB9 wire(s) in 4 CH on = T6R-HW B

Then a link should be added between T6R-HW terminals L2, A and D so that all three are electrically joined together.

Ignore the OT (OpenTherm) terminals, your system won't use them.

Please Note
The T6R HW is designed to operate with systems that allow separate control of the Heating and Hot water, commonly known as 'S-Plan' and 'Y-Plan' that are fully pumped and have a motorised valve (or valves) controlling it. If the system is an older installation with gravity circulation of hot water, and only the central heating is pumped (these systems are usually identified because it is impossible to have the central heating 'on' without having the hot water also 'on' at the same time) then I don't think that the T6R-HW has a 'gravity setting' and so is not really suitable without some modifications to the wiring or plumbing.

I think you will be OK though, because there appears to be what looks like a motorised valve just visible in one of you photos.

Capture.JPG
 
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