honeywell m/valve problem

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4 Jul 2011
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hi forum experts,need some advice/help.
this valve is sticking,if i turn off the power,both valves will let me move the little handle to the left with some resistance,then they both go back to the middle on there own.when power back on,i push the lever on the front valve back to the left and it stays there.what is the middle setting,i know the left says man and the right is auto,and should it allways be in the middle.
with the power back,if i set the h/w to 24hrs or override the controls to come on the boiler wont fire up,it will only fire up if i turn the c/h on aswell.
is it easy to swap out the motor on this model,theres some nos on the valve 8738.
thanks for all advice View media item 35616 View media item 35617or can the motor come out so i can get at the spindle ive read a lot about
 
Sounds like you have a spicky spindle.
The number for this valve is v4043h1056 thats printed of the case of the bottom of your valve.
The valve don't have a middle position.
 
Sounds like you have a spicky spindle.
The number for this valve is v4043h1056 thats printed of the case of the bottom of your valve.
The valve don't have a middle position.
cheers dude,can i take out the motor to get at the spindle,https://www.amazon.co.uk/Honeywell-Replacement-Powerhead-V4043H-Valves/dp/B003EJCDDQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1310484602&sr=8-3
if i cant get at the spindle,then i take it i might get away with one of these,to save me draining the whole system,cheers
 
you take the complete actuator off.
check the lid has it got a dimple on the top ?
 
you take the complete actuator off.
check the lid has it got a dimple on the top ?
theres a little square hole at the right of the lever,about 2mil sq,theres 2 smaller indents/holes just behind the lever,i can take a pic if it will help,cheers
 
Like this dimple on the top lid.

wp39175d20_05-1.jpg
 
link don't work.

if the spindles sticking then its the bottom brass part you need not the actuator.
they useally just get crud round them inside causing them to stick.
 
well if you have that dimple on the lid then you can remove the actuator without getting wet.

look inside where the cable enters and you'll see a brass screw and oppersite corner at bottom near spring is another screw, undo them and the actuator lifts off.
 
well if you have that dimple on the lid then you can remove the actuator without getting wet.

look inside where the cable enters and you'll see a brass screw and oppersite corner at bottom near spring is another screw, undo them and the actuator lifts off.
i see them,its getting late and the pipes are still hot from earlier so going to take it apart tomorrow and have a look,so i take it apart and just clean it,drop of wd40 and hopefully it will be unstuck.
thanks.
and if it still wont work,can u tell from this pic if this is a direct replacement View media item 35624just checked my tool station book,will defo do the job
 
londonpuma";p="2047558 said:
seco services";p="2047548 said:
well if you have that dimple on the lid then you can remove the actuator without getting wet.

look inside where the cable enters and you'll see a brass screw and oppersite corner at bottom near spring is another screw, undo them and the actuator lifts off.[/quote
 
Thats the actuator.
if the spindles jamming it'll be the brass valve at fault not the actuator.
 
Thats the actuator.
if the spindles jamming it'll be the brass valve at fault not the actuator.
ok,so if i cant free the spindle then i have to buy the brass valve which comes with the actuator allready attacthed,is that right,which will mean draining the system,is that right,ta
 

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