Honeywell V4073A replacement tips

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15 Jan 2008
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Cambridgeshire
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I have a Y plan system and whilst the HW works, the CH doesn't. So I put the valve on manual and now, of course, the CH is on when the HW is on. I pretty sure it's the valve that's had it. I say this as the wife confessed that she'd given the valve a bit of a knock whilst in the airing cupboard - and then the problem started.

I'm about to start on the replacement and had a look inside the powerhead which is basically the motor and a PCB. My question is really how to approach the job - would it be better to change the powerhead or just try the swapping out the motor first? If there are any electrically tests that need doing, I'm happy to get the multimeter out.

Thanks.
 
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Thanks for the quick reply.

I noticed that you can buy a replacement head that will go on if the existing valve is new enough (mine is from around 1990, is that new? Where is the "pimple" on the newer ones?). Or I could buy the valve plus head together (which is actually cheaper) and swap it over.

Which is best? Can both be done dry?

Thanks again
 
See if the motor is motoring (they're slow).
If not, you could just change the motor.

If there's no pimple, you can't change the whole head without getting wet.
3port-1pimple.gif
 
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Dont be tempted to take the 5 wires out of the box and remember where they go. Instead snip the old wires so that theres an inch or two of each colour left on the terminal block. You can then take each end of wire out and fit the new wires in one at a time in a logical order.
 
Thanks for the replies, I just thought I would finish this thread off for the archive.

It turned out I had a new-type powerhead, so I got a new one (£35 inc. P&P) and did a straight swap. The original installation was lazy, with the cable stretched across the corner of the airing cupboard, so I used a junction box to connect the new cable to the old one which I cut near the old powerhead. The cable now runs neatly around the walls and wiring it up was simplified.

Easy job.
 

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