Hot water cylinder temp fix

[noxfort]

Hello all,

After a month of annoying heating/hot water problems we have figured out the coil in our very old hwc as broken and letting hot water into ch system.

I have a new cylinder (exact size so should be straight swap) coming tuesday.

This may sound stupid but just want to make sure im not going to create a stupid problem. Is it OK to connect the coil inlet and outlet together so I can run the CH?

Whilst im competent to replace old pipework like for like to change something I always like a outside view.

Thanks

 

[xr4x4]

Yes..but is it worth it?

To drain down the system, do the loop.. And then drain it again Tuesday.

 

[igneous]

If there's no emergency then do it all once

 

[igneous]

As a side note why join the coil, just cap off?

 

[igneous]

Or even better fit some isolating valves for future maintenance

 

[noxfort]

Managed to borrow a electric heater so just going to drain it in prep for Tuesday. Just been told it could be here tomorrow so as you said don't see the point in draining it twice for a little bit of CH.

thanks for the help.

 

[igneous]

Hope the change over goes well 👍

 

[Agile]

To spread the time taken into smaller time slots I would have used isolating valves so you could run the system and then just connect to them and open the valves when the cylinder is connected.

You should always have an adjustable valve on the coil to balance the coil against the heating.

Tony

 

[Agile]

To spread the time taken into smaller time slots I would have used isolating valves so you could run the system and then just connect to them and open the valves when the cylinder is connected.

You should always have an adjustable valve on the coil to balance the coil against the heating.

Tony

 

[noxfort]

OK,

New tank has arrived. As its Stainless Steel it has 22mm compression fittings and not 1" BSP for outlet.

I currently have a whole house pump fed from a surrey flange. The top of the flange connects to vent and the side goes to pump then taps/shower.

The new tank has a fairly high Essex flange fitted as standard. Would it be best to connect this to pump and top to vent?

Hope my explanation is clear.

Thanks again

 

[Madrab]

Yes, no reason not to use the essex flange, and vent as normal.

To minimise any air into the pump, taking the feed from the essex should do that.

 

[xr4x4]

Is it a rm cylinder?

I fitted a 210l s/s a while ago, 22mm compression fittings, a pleasure to install.

Untitled

• xr4x4
• 8 Feb 2015
• 2

 

[john320d]

I recently had a cylinder coil leak and the heating sucked out all 40 years of sediment out of the cylinder and dumped it in heating system. So give the system a good flushing before fitting the cylinder.

 

[noxfort]

It is an rm stainless steel. Was easy to install only issue was tight space behind the cylinder to plumb the Essex flange in.

Have two issues still if anyone can help.

1. The gate valve on the cold storage tank to the cylinder is dripping. Have replaced the olive and pipe but still s very slow drip. Should I just replace the gate valve?

2. My cylinder thermostat (danfoss type at) is not stopping the boiler. Anything to check? I never changed any wiring.

Cheers guys.

 

[Madrab]

1. The gate valve on the cold storage tank to the cylinder is dripping. Have replaced the olive and pipe but still s very slow drip. Should I just replace the gate valve?

If the valve closes properly with minimum twisting effort then no need to replace. Dripping from where? If it's from one of the nuts, then 2 twists of PTFE covering each olive and try that.

2. My cylinder thermostat (danfoss type at) is not stopping the boiler. Anything to check? I never changed any wiring.

Do you have 2 2 port valves or 1 3 port? The stat controls the valve, the valve turns the boiler on and off by a microswitch in a 2 port. 3 port can be direct to boiler.