hot water or not

[doyle]

nice tittle but its my first job so i dont want to land myself in the hot water.


ok jobs service a boiler unknown make occupant complains of no hot water to downstairs only upstairs runs hot.

water is flowng down stairs so this would erradicate possible blockage of pipes and is presumed to be on same pipes as upstairs.

all help appreciated

thanks

terry

 

[JohnD]

funny kitchen tap (e,g, joystick operated) gone wrong?

 

[doyle]

will check for that, could be a logical answer.
thanks

 

[gas4you]

water is flowng down stairs

Is there a leak upstairs then

 

[doyle]

no reported leak.

low flow rate and not running hot, sounds like it might not be getting supplied enough water for combi to recognise it being demanded.

i'll ask a silly question, can manifold like y plan ones be used ofr seperation of domestic hot water for upstairs and downstairs as last resort is ripping out pipework for replacement.

hot water is affected in both kitchen and wc, removing the tap defect element.

only things i cna think of is owner has done work and not openned isolation valves properly, fauly pump or blockage of pipes.

 

[doyle]

been out to the job today, it was a baxi 105e actual symptoms rather than those given was no hot water downstairs unless c heating was on, bath taps ran hot without c heating.

fault in question appears to be diverter valve but not to sure, as rough indication to what i was looking at above the diaphram on the assembly a small rod pokes out to the microswitch and lowers when after usage when fan goes off. when demanding hot water the rod does not rise as it did when bath tap was on.

just need confirmation that im looking at it correctly as such and a little guidance as to what to watch for when exchaging the diverter valve.

one last thing though would be dwh (which i think stands for domestic hot water) when commissioning a boiler and the need to check dwh does this mean flow rate at tap with the cup thingy. if not can someone give advice to me on this
thanks
terry

 

[gas4you]

Start with replacing the diaphragm, rod sould be popping out fully each time any tap is on. Cheap and easy to do after turning off all isolators under boiler and draing boiler out

 

[clf-gas]

fault in question appears to be diverter valve but not to sure,[/quote

Nice one Terry, You found the fault, Shame you did'nt know the boiler and model before hand. You could have gone armed with a new diaphragm kit.

no hot water downstairs unless c heating was on, bath taps ran hot without c heating.

Not being there and not seeing the job, I would suggest the bath operated the diverter becuase of mre flow from bath tap.

one last thing though would be dwh (which i think stands for domestic hot water)

Corrrect Terry........Add one merit star

to check dwh does this mean flow rate at tap with the cup thingy.

Corrrrect Again Terry..... Add another merit...


Now with the monies from this repair job, get yourself a Folw cup and a guage for measuring mains pressure.


Again weldone......

PS, Are you still drinking from the fountain of Knowledge


Edit: Excuse any typo's, Still drunk and in a rush to go and fix MIL's boiler, She'l have to brew up so I know which old boiler Im looking at

 

[doyle]

yes still taking all info i can especially form this forum, appears but cant state for definate, wanted the repair under normal service, i think he tinkers with it himself a bit but couldnt rectify the problem so booked service hoping that cleaning the filters would solve all.
as for the hot water, well flexi pipe with iso valve not fully operational valve semi closed and couldnt open it fully which coincidental leaked at the screw point when i touch it " didnt leak before"
hot water upstairs would fire boiler because they ran(fiercely) the bath tap instead (greater flow rate that could lift damaged diaphram kitchen couldnt) which coincidentally also failed after usage several times for testing ... moral never let them run bath tap to test boiler whilst listening for the clicks as "it was working earlier before it was touched"

what have i let myself in for as i hope not all are like that

 

[Paul Barker]

Aslong as it isn't an instant it's a 5 minute fix. Turn off cold into boiler, but bucket (or roller tray depending on space constraints) underneath, old towel in back bass of pull down panel to protect pcb . From front of boiler undo the cheese head screws on the large brass saucer facing u, and undo the small nut on top to pull small pile out of way, remove microswitch. Get ready to catch the water and the springs, tap brass saucer quite hard until it splits whence it will spring out at u.

New diaphragm with hole in middle and new o ring in the gland, clean push rods and silicone them with special tube stuff for diverter valves (or spittle if u don't have access to it) reassemble in reverse, nip up gland to squash tiny o ring that prevents "there is a drip from my boiler do I need a new one" call backs.

I think the dhw service kit costs me £18 plus vat includes the gland and o ring the diaphragm and the tube of patent spittle substitute.

It is one of the easiest DHW diaphragms there is, as the manufacturer has been sensible and made this (first part required on a combi of that era) repairable without the need for toddlers hands teenagers eye sight, Chris R's special tools.

 

[doyle]

thanks paul your a star