Hi
I have an S plan system with Honeywell 2 port zone valves. Yesterday there was no hot water despite the timer being on for HW. I manually latched the HW zone valve to open. I then turned up the CH thermostat and the boiler fired and heated HW and CH.
Now I can manually move the zone valve open and shut with minimal resistance. If I open it manually, it stays open even when not latched. If I try and push up the lever to latch open, it drops down again from latch to auto but stays in the open position. This gives us enough HW for now. Boiler thermostat is at 65c so no danger of overheating the unvented.
Would you replace the motor (£20) or the whole actuator (£60)?
Should I test the microswitch between grey and orange to see if there is continuity when valve open, and if so microswitch is OK?
Then I can test across the motor leads (brown/blue) to check if motor is 2400 Ohm and if not its faulty?
Or do you just swap the whole thing out anyway?
Any other tips?
Thanks
I have an S plan system with Honeywell 2 port zone valves. Yesterday there was no hot water despite the timer being on for HW. I manually latched the HW zone valve to open. I then turned up the CH thermostat and the boiler fired and heated HW and CH.
Now I can manually move the zone valve open and shut with minimal resistance. If I open it manually, it stays open even when not latched. If I try and push up the lever to latch open, it drops down again from latch to auto but stays in the open position. This gives us enough HW for now. Boiler thermostat is at 65c so no danger of overheating the unvented.
Would you replace the motor (£20) or the whole actuator (£60)?
Should I test the microswitch between grey and orange to see if there is continuity when valve open, and if so microswitch is OK?
Then I can test across the motor leads (brown/blue) to check if motor is 2400 Ohm and if not its faulty?
Or do you just swap the whole thing out anyway?
Any other tips?
Thanks