Hi my problem is the hot water is not working it's heated by a horstman economy 7quartz control it's normally heated off peak but as it didn't work I tried to heat the water by the boost switch and it tripped any ideas what the fault could be and how to repair it Thanks in advance
Hot water tank
- Thread starter droo77
- Start date
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I think you mean a hot water cylinder
and I gather it is heated by one (or two?) immersion heaters, with no gas boiler. Usually the night rate heater is towards the bottom of the cylinder, and a daytime top-up is near the top. Is that right?
When you say "tripped" what do you mean? An RCD? Or an MCB? Or the overheat stat?
and I gather it is heated by one (or two?) immersion heaters, with no gas boiler. Usually the night rate heater is towards the bottom of the cylinder, and a daytime top-up is near the top. Is that right?
When you say "tripped" what do you mean? An RCD? Or an MCB? Or the overheat stat?
hi
sorry its the cylinder and it has 1 element near the bottm and it trips the rcd if you try to set the boost switch
sorry its the cylinder and it has 1 element near the bottm and it trips the rcd if you try to set the boost switch
Sounds like a faulty upper thermostat.
Needs replacement.
If its an unvented needs a G3 qualified engineer to work on it.
Tony
Edit...Oops, I said thermostat but of course meant element. To test it, it can be isolated and tested for 10K-990K resistance to earth.
Needs replacement.
If its an unvented needs a G3 qualified engineer to work on it.
Tony
Edit...Oops, I said thermostat but of course meant element. To test it, it can be isolated and tested for 10K-990K resistance to earth.
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tripping the RCD makes me think the sheath of the element is eroded and leaky. A thermostat would just make it heat too much (or not at all). Unless the CU has recently been changed and wired up by an incompetent.
he says it has (just?) one element near the bottom
taking out an element from near the bottom of a cylinder will mean draining it, but if you loosen the thread by giving the element big nut half a turn while the cylinder is still full (preferably with a box spanner) the copper is less likely to fold and tear
he says it has (just?) one element near the bottom
taking out an element from near the bottom of a cylinder will mean draining it, but if you loosen the thread by giving the element big nut half a turn while the cylinder is still full (preferably with a box spanner) the copper is less likely to fold and tear
hi thanks to both of you for your reply s very much appreciated 
Yes it definitely sounds like a failed element. There will be a fuse or circuit breaker in a seperate consumer unit which supplies the element with electricity during off peak hours. You may find this has also tripped / blown.
It will be easy for an electrician to test your element and confirm if it has failed, and if it has, it is not a huge job to replace it.
It will be easy for an electrician to test your element and confirm if it has failed, and if it has, it is not a huge job to replace it.
thanks for your reply RF Lighting
If this is an unvented cylinder then a G3 qualified person is needed to fit a new element.
Virtually no electricians are qualified for this but most heating engineers are.
You should ask before you make a visit that they are G3 qualified if its an unvented.
Tony
Virtually no electricians are qualified for this but most heating engineers are.
You should ask before you make a visit that they are G3 qualified if its an unvented.
Tony
Do you have a link to some documentation that shows this is a requirement?
No?
http://www.heatraesadia.com/docs/Megaflo_eco_-_36006062_issue_09.pdf
From the manual:
Only legal definition of "competent" is one who is qualified.
From the manual:
Only legal definition of "competent" is one who is qualified.
Do all manufacturers specify this?
How bored do you think I am?
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