How can you tell if the copper pipes in a property need replacing or not?

Those pipes look great but if they are like mine the 'lagging' is like a tubular hessian that largely turns to dust - best to replace that.
With old systems, problems can come to light if a gravity system is converted to mains pressure courtesy of a combi boiler.
John :)
The current system is an old Baxi combi boiler more than 7/8 years old
 
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I’ve seen end feed fittings just come apart with a slight pull on older installations (not even that old say 80s) and I’ve never bought a place and not ripped out and replaced all the plumbing. But at the end of the day it depends if the plumber of years gone by was better than whoever’s gonna do it today...also seen fittings fail shortly after being installed
I’d almost certainly replace heating pipes as probably sludged up
Every time you've refurbished a house have you always replaced the piping?
 
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I've just seen the pics:

The pipe walls do look almost Type-K thickness but maybe the cut ends haven't been reamed out.
Whatever, you'd be nuts to go pulling that installation out - there's a number of ways to flush or power flush the boiler and the tubes without pulling anything.

Just saying but the pipes need clipping or strap securing at every joist notch - clips isolate the pipes from rubbing and potentially squeaking.
A damp rag wipe will remove any green flux excess.
Ream out all cut Cu ends.
While you have the boards up lag the pipes.
 
Hey John, thanks for taking the time to reply. The system is a current old Baxi combi boiler which is quite old (Probably 8 years plus, when I researched it's model number it's very famous for longevity and apparently landlords love them) Based on the pictures if you were in my situation do you think you'd replace or keep the copper?
I can only suggest what I would do - time and access permitting of course! In my own system (softish water supply - i.e no scale in the kettle)
There may well be a thin layer of magnetite in the pipes - this is iron oxide (two molecule) = rust but black rather than red.
I'd only replace the copper if it was damaged - kinked, beaten flat or whatever.
If you can flush the pipes out with mains water then great....preferably to each radiator valve if possible and one at a time. The flow and return pipes at the boiler will be bigger of course but are cleaned the same way.
The radiators - if you wish to keep them - will always have some black sludge inside which will ruin any carpet :eek: so drag them into the garden and flush every which way with a hose.
If you wish to pressure test, only use water - never air. If any leak should occur the pressure immediately vanishes with water so it's much safer.
As I mentioned earlier, the feed pipe from the small loft tank must be flushed - this is where trouble usually starts as the rust and deposit is there unmoving for ages.
If you still have galvanised steel tanks in the loft, then replace them with plastic ones with a lid. Bale the small tank out with a wet vac to prevent any crap from going down into the system.
Good luck with your project - a quality inhibitor like Fernox is crucial, and a magnetic filter on the boiler return pipe is a very good move. Others will recommend one.
John :)
 
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Thanks for your reply! So have you come across situations where complete refurbishments are being done and they don't replace the pipes?

I can only describe my own experience. I am currently renovating my own flat (very slowly). For various reasons I am replacing the CH pipework but keeping the cold/hot water pipework.

I’ve learned to solder and to bend pipes, and I reckon I might be OK at it by the time I’ve finished...
 

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