How do I remove this toilet please - Picture attached

[Mutley56]

Hello all,

Without me using this thread to restate the problem I have with my bathroom flooring (cracked grouting and porcelain floor tile on the “flexing” suspended timber floor – see my previous posts for details), I would be grateful if you could let me know, in basic terms, how to remove this toilet. Also what pipes / connectors or whatever else I would need to plumb it back in.

Once the toilet has been removed I plan to remove the porcelain floor tiles and underlying plyboarding from the suspended timber floor boards. Then I will re-use / replace the 12mm WBP plyboard and screw it down every 20cm all over the face of the boarding. I will then use BAL powdered flexible adhesive and powdered grey BAL grout.

I now know that the original plyboarding was only screwed down around the edges of the boards and not across the entire face of the sheets. This has led to the floor flexing and subsequent cracking of grout lines and a porcelain tile.

Thank you for your replies.

//www.diynot.com/network/Mutley56/albums/5558


Mutley56

 

[Happyplumber]

I am not too sure what seems to be the problem,just make sure you empty out as much water as you can from toilet pan then loosen the screws ,if there is any silicone then cut this with sharp blade voila

I dont know if you have heard of aquapanel or no more ply ,personally i prefer to use aquapanel,this is alot better and you can even tank the floor to stop anywater whatsoever and make it totally waterproof

There is also alot less problems with these products then anything wood based ,just make sure to use plenty of screws when fitting them down to the original floor covering

 

[Richard C]

Turn the service valve on the bottom of the flexible pipe thro 90 degrees, flush the loo & drain the water from the trap (old sponge); remove what ever fixings are securing the toilet pan to the floor & cut through any silicone sealer, as stated (can’t see from the photo), remove 2 screws (probably) which will be securing the cistern to the wall & pull the toilet complete with the P multi-quick adaptor out of the floor; you will get still get some water spillage so it’s advisable to have an old towel handy.

Had a quick look again at your previous two threads; the original method of tile fixing was the main problems but incorrect boarding & insufficient fixings will definitely not help either. In most cases, 12mm WBP ply overboard is sufficient but BS & most tile adhesive manufacturers recommend 15mm minimum; I would advise you carefully asses the your basic floor structure & it’s ultimate rigidity using 12mm WBP overboard. You may be better off replacing with 18-25mm WBP; I’m sure you don’t need me to tell you how disastrous it would be for you if you had the same problems all over again.

 

[Mutley56]

Many thanks for your replies Happyplumber and Richard C

A few of questions spring to mind to clarify things for me.

1) I assume that the silicone referred to is the bead running around the base of the pan where it sits on the tiled floor?

2) Is the P multi-quick adapter the white pipe sticking out of the rear of the toilet pan that then turns 90 degress to insert into the black pipe that disappears under the floor? If so, then presumably the black tubing stays in place?

3) When I come to reinstate the toilet is it simply a case for the P multi-quick adapter to be reinserted in to the black pipe? Please let me know how that would then be sealed.

4) Once the P multi-quick adaptor is removed, am I right to imagine that the opening into the black pipe should be blocked to prevent sewer smells from entering the bathroom?

Many thanks again for your help with this project.

Mutley56

 

[Richard C]

1) I assume that the silicone referred to is the bead running around the base of the pan where it sits on the tiled floor?

Yes, Stanley type knife should sort it. If you cant find any screws in the base of the pan, the silicone may be all that's holing it down; a bit naughty but often done.

2) Is the P multi-quick adapter the white pipe sticking out of the rear of the toilet pan that then turns 90 degress to insert into the black pipe that disappears under the floor? If so, then presumably the black tubing stays in place?

Yes; you will find the bottom end has numerous plastic ribs around the outside which seal into the black pipe & the top end has them around the inside which seal onto the pan; the black pipe is either connected directly to the foul drain (on ground floor only) or into a vented soil stack.

3) When I come to reinstate the toilet is it simply a case for the P multi-quick adapter to be reinserted in to the black pipe? Please let me know how that would then be sealed.

Yes, the same plastic ribs provide the seal; if it’s been installed for any length of time they can distort so it may be better to buy a new one to avoid any chance of a leak; prices vary but not much more than a fiver & certainly less than a tenner.

4) Once the P multi-quick adaptor is removed, am I right to imagine that the opening into the black pipe should be blocked to prevent sewer smells from entering the bathroom?

Yes; you can get a rubber bung but I usually just gaffa tape a plastic carrier bag over it.

 

[Mutley56]

Many thanks for your clear adivce Richard C,

This will be the 1st toilet I've removed and re-installed, hence the many questions.

Once I've carried out this project I'll let you know the outcome of the plumbing and floor retiling. I hope to do the project in July this year.

Thanks again.

Mutley56

 

[Richard C]

Feedback is always good but seldom given

 

[Mutley56]

hi Richard C,

One final question if you wouldn't mind.

When I disconnect the toilet from the waste, should I disconnect the pan from the vertical white pipe thereby leaving the white pipe in situ looking a bit like a periscope? Or would it be better to leave the pan and white pipe connected and remove them as one from the the grey pipe that passes through the tiled floor?

Many thanks for your advice.

Mutley56

 

[Richard C]

Remove the P connector completely; pull the toilet away from the connector & then remove the connector from the soil pipe, it just pulls/twists off. As I said previously, for the small cost involved buy a new multi-quick P connector to avoid any chance of leaks when you come to refit the loo.

 

[Mutley56]

Thanks again Richard C. I will certainly buy a new one from the plumbers merchant.

Best regards.

Mutley56

 

[Richard C]

Thanks again Richard C. I will certainly buy a new one from the plumbers merchant.

Get one from B&Q, they will be far cheaper for you

 

[Johnmelad502]

View media item 22401
After you remove the toilet, plug the hole ore you will be forever smelling the sewer.

 

[Richard C]

View media item 22401After you remove the toilet, plug the hole ore you will be forever smelling the sewer.

Yes; you can get a rubber bung but I usually just gaffa tape a plastic carrier bag over it.