How do I splice an alarm into mains power supply?

[username132]

I would like to fit a burgler alarm that is connected directly to the mains supply (as opposed to via a plug with a laughable pp3 battery backup). I want to know how exactly you figure out where the cables are, how you tap into them and how much damage to the wall is necessary? Do you need one of those devices that detect wires through the wall? How was it done before such things were invented?
Before now I've only changed a couple of light swtiches, a relatively simple affair since the wires are already there and I was coached by people on this forum. The height of my dad's DIY skill was sticky taping the brakes on my bike (turns out there are allen keys for such things!) so accordingly, my experience is limited.

 

[dw3101]

Dont bother.

Bin the rape alarm and buy a burglar alarm control panel for 30 -40 quid

 

[username132]

I don't have a rape alarm, my question concerns installation of the control panel. I think you misunderstood my question.

 

[EddieCurrent]

Hello,

Where, in relation to the 'panel' is the nearest outlet ?

 

[username132]

Well we don't own a panel yet. I need to be sure of things first. I could make it very close, but I don't think mum wants it down by the floor. Would it be possible to do without rewallpapering/painting?

 

[JonB]

My system was Pro. fitted some years ago & is fed from the downstairs lighting circuit via a junction box on the upstairs landing & down to the alarm box in minitrunking.
JonB

 

[Chri5]

Well we don't own a panel yet. I need to be sure of things first. I could make it very close, but I don't think mum wants it down by the floor. Would it be possible to do without rewallpapering/painting?

Is the alarm wired or wireless??

A wired alarm is the safer bet, more reliable and less mtce re: batteries in the PIR / detectors.

Any wired system is likely to require some 'adjustment' to the fabric of the property. For obvious reasons wires should be protected / hidden and that will require trunking or wall chases to obscure the cabling.

Most alarm fitters (I'd hope) would prefer a fixed fuse spur for the 240v supply since this is fixed and static rather than a plug, which might be removed by a 3rd party.
Most alarms have a power of sensor which will active the alarm siren and bell box, once again a fixed fuse spur prevent such phantom alarms.

I would speak to the alarm installers and see if anyone could do the power feed at the same time, under a MWC- minor works cert.

 

[username132]

*I* will be the alarm installer! I want to use a wired alarm for lower cost and maintenance and to prevent possible interference.

Chris: You think it's necessary to insert new wires from the hall all the way to the consumer unit (in the living room)? I liked what I thought the other guy was going to tell me about re: tapping into the wiring that feeds the nearest plug socket.

JonB: How do I find out where the junction box is?

 

[bernardgreen]

If you power the alarm from the ring circuit there is a chance of false alarms caused by voltage spikes when other equipment plugged into sockets on the ring is turned on or off.

If you want to turn of most of the electrics when you go on holiday the ring will have to be left on to keep the alarm powered.


Separate MCB in the consumer unit is best

 

[beinerts]

If your experience is limited, I would say get a wireless alarm. Yes, the motion and door sensors will need to have their batteries replaced from time to time, but installing a system to the mains will invariably involve some level of redecorating afterwards. Also, it will still work even if all the power to the property is cut. I installed one of these http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=95136&ts=67684 not so long ago and it was easy enough. It's more pricey, but you need to consider the cost of wiring and redecorating with a wired alarm.

 

[mo2]

*I* will be the alarm installer! I want to use a wired alarm for lower cost and maintenance and to prevent possible interference.

Chris: You think it's necessary to insert new wires from the hall all the way to the consumer unit (in the living room)? I liked what I thought the other guy was going to tell me about re: tapping into the wiring that feeds the nearest plug socket.

JonB: How do I find out where the junction box is?

Is there a socket nearby where you want to install the control panel?

When installing a wired alarm, there will be lots of cable routing and no way around it.

With all the chasing, you might want to have a seperate circuit for the alarm, to avoid the problems mentioned earlier. Mine has been supplied from a spur from a socket with no problems for years.

 

[username132]

Mine has been supplied from a spur from a socket with no problems for years.

Sorry, I'm still new to all this electrical terminology - I thought a spur was a link straight to the consumer unit - what do you mean by a spur from a socket?

 

[ColJack]

the term "spur" is used to mean a point of connection, so the "spur" could be fed straight from the board on it's own circuit, or it might be part of another circuit such as a ring main or radial

 

[rmh]

The alarm control panel must be connected to mains 240V via a 3amp fused spur, connecting directly to a 32amp ring main is just asking for trouble. Ideally the alarm should be on its own circuit but its not critical, its also best to stay away from lighting circuits, especially if fluro's are present.
Any alarm installer worth his salt can install it without the need for re-decoration or wall chasing, if he cant, dont use him

 

[username132]

Since I want to do this myself, how exactly do I create a spur into the socket?