Can anyone help just bought a wireless thermostat salus rf to replace the old one to fit to a combi boiler heatline 24kw monza with built in clock .I know i need main live and neutrual to the reciever but bit loss with the other two wires for the thermostat ,can anyone help
how fit the salus thermostat wireless to my heatline 24kw
- Thread starter scanny
- Start date
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The two switching wires from new stat will go to the two connections on block X17 in the boiler's electrics. They're on left of the block - connections marked 'RT' and '24V'.
If these 2 connections have a link wire in them, you will need to remove it. If the new stat is programmable for ch timings, you will have to set the integral boiler clock to constant on.
If these 2 connections have a link wire in them, you will need to remove it. If the new stat is programmable for ch timings, you will have to set the integral boiler clock to constant on.
ok thanks for that and there is a loop wire connecting to rt and 24v on block x17 .what is the rt and 24v mean cheers
RT stands for room thermostat connection. 24Volts because the RT connection uses low voltage for switching, not mains.
Doesn't matter wich way around the switching connections are made from the stat to boiler, as it's only a switch.
Doesn't matter wich way around the switching connections are made from the stat to boiler, as it's only a switch.
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ok you have been great help sorry for the questions but why would the rt and 24v be looped in the first place .just trying to get a little bit of understanding of it thanks
No worries. It's looped to complete the circuit to keep the ch on permanently. By removing the loop, and replacing it with a stat, which is basically a swich, the circuit makes or breaks as the stat turns the boiler on and off.
ok so would that loop always have to be removed then if its to operate the thermostat .Because i did fit a salus rf wireless quite a while back but it was the one which actually replaced the clock ,but that loop stayed in that time
The RT loop is one place where you can remove the link and replace it with a stat to act as a switch across the two contacts.
The clock will be another place where it is wired into two different contacts. Again the clock acts as a switch across 2 contacts. It would be possible to remove the clock from it's 2 contacts and put a programmable stat in it's place . This would make or break the 2 contacts for clock, but you would leave the RT loop in place.
Basically, the two sets of contacts (RT and clock) are just two breaks in the same wire. Current comes to clock contacts > if they are looped or the switch for them is closed, current goes on to RT contacts. If RT contacts are either looped or the swich is closed, the current continues to boiler electrics and turns boiler on. If either or both sets of contacts are open, the boiler stays off.
The clock will be another place where it is wired into two different contacts. Again the clock acts as a switch across 2 contacts. It would be possible to remove the clock from it's 2 contacts and put a programmable stat in it's place . This would make or break the 2 contacts for clock, but you would leave the RT loop in place.
Basically, the two sets of contacts (RT and clock) are just two breaks in the same wire. Current comes to clock contacts > if they are looped or the switch for them is closed, current goes on to RT contacts. If RT contacts are either looped or the swich is closed, the current continues to boiler electrics and turns boiler on. If either or both sets of contacts are open, the boiler stays off.
ok thanks for that been much helpfull ,i found some more fitting instructions on youtube but on the salus rf500 reciever they linked the live to the com why would that be
Pardon my ignorance whitespirit but if im putting a programmable room stat in (SALUS) do I need to remove the clock/timer wires? Ive just removed the red loop wire from RT and 24v and wired direct to them but seem to be having issues??
I started a new thread before I saw this.
Did you get it sorted Scanny?
Because they must have been using 230v switching so have linked the mains to the thermostat then back out to the boiler. As your boiler is 24v unless you want to fry your pcb you MUST take the 24v from the boiler to the stat then back to the RT connection.
A Salus on a Heatline.......Nice 
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