How important is radiator location in a room?

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Flocking idiots. :rolleyes:

Talking about yourself aren't you?

Envious about my huge house on a huge plot of land heated by very inefficient but extremely reliable 1950s boiler with pipes to radiators two inch thick - so never any blockages, no pumps no anything pure convection with boiler actually in the guest house heating the main house effortlessly as high as +30 when it is -20 outside. And yes radiators are near windows with perfect two layer curtains covering them up thus sending most of the heat straight into the streets and with all that bills under 500 quid. Yes - would not even think of having radiators in any other place other then under windows in my holiday home!

When I get to my holiday home for skiing that 50 year old system will heat it up from about 5C to 25C in couple of hours with temperature of, hopefully -10 to -20C outside! :)

But UK is different. Have three properties in the UK. In my flat I just heat the living room, and bedrooms are not cold - heat travels to them if doors are open. It suits me fine to have living room at +24 and bedrooms at +22.

In the house central heating only downstairs on internals - yet gradient between coldest and warmest parts of the house (half an inch from windows pane / external wall measurements apart) is again about 2 degrees. Suits me absolutely fine to have 24-22 degree range.

And then I have another property with "modern" central heating that gives a headache every few years! :D :D
 
Or is it Water Services?..... He talked out of his backside too.
 
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Dunno mate, but he's welcome to his ****hole ex-eastern block igloo. I'll stick to my far eastern pads. Much warmer. I can always find a mountain to go up if I feel the need to ski. :rolleyes:


All this is a remarkable diversion from Water Systems ignorance. Now John knows who he's joined forces with I wonder if he'll have the balls to come back with some answers?


First time for everything.
 
The Eastern European countries build well insulated properties, all of our friends out there have inner and outer double glazing, inner and outer front doors and walls 1000mm thick (The older ones though don't have any further insulation).... They also have district heating... In some cases where they are off grid, they have log and peat fuelled boilers as gas is too expensive.
 
Aye we have assorted Scandinavian friends and their houses are mentally well insulated.

One of my best customers is Danish and he put all he spent a fortune putting trench rads under his windows.
 
Sacho
with perfect two layer curtains covering them up thus sending most of the heat straight into the streets.
Only radiated heat as u have almost stopped the convection heat. Rads efficiency next to useless.

Curious: do you box rads in as well. :rolleyes:

Did you know, that having manufactures side panels and grills on top reduce heat output by approx 8%.

Did you know, by having top and bottom feeds as opposed to bottom inlet and outlet increases the efficiency of a rad by 8 - 12%.

Did you know, by pumping a cylinder circuit from the bottom to the top increases the heat to water transfer rate making the cylinder more efficient.

Physics again, there's more to Newton than apples. If you design a heating system without a pump I am sure you will get the hang of it.
 
from VOGEL&NOOT specification.

In accordance with BSEN 442: 1997, the heat output figures in
this leaflet have been derived from tests made with top and
bottom same side connection (T.B.S.E.). When bottom opposite
end connections are used (B.O.E.), there will be a small reduction
in heat output.
:unsure:
 

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