Hi I'm hoping someone can help. I replaced my valve head 2 years ago, it was just the metal box, not the part with the bits of piping attached (sorry not sure of the name of the whole thing), it was a Honeywell head that I had before, it just had 2 screws on the baseplate so I didn't need to drain the system etc, just take the head off, reattach the new one and rewire it. I did replace it with a cheaper 'compatible' make and all worked fine for 2 years. In the last week though I am having issues again where the heating is only coming on when the hot water is on. I pushed the lever on the head down as far as it would go (with some resistance) and it slowly returned to about midway position, I cannot get the lever to fully return to the top. So I'm assuming it's the same problem again. However, due to the fact that I replaced it only 2 years ago, I'm wondering whether the issue is because I used a cheaper brand, or whether there's actually a different problem? Unfortunately I am incredibly busy at this time of year so don't have time to fix the problem myself again so I called out a gas engineer but I'm unsure about them due to the fact that they firstly said they'll have to check to see how long it took the last time they done this type of job before getting me a quote because it's not something they do often (just seems a strange way of getting quotes), and they've now come back with a quote of nearly £190 saying it's cause they'll need to drain the whole system and it'll take quite a few hours. So I guess I'm trying to do some digging around before deciding whether they're trying to pull the wool over my eyes or whether they may actually be genuine. Thanks in advance.
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How long should a valve head last?
- Thread starter Hydra101
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You get what you pay for. The head only lasted 2 years because it was a cheapo compatible head. Also could be that the spindle is stiff causing the motor to work extra hard. Does the head work ok when removed from the valve? If it does you need a new body. Not a head
P
Phill Peck
Price is fair but shouldn't take a few hours unless your system is huge.
I would expect to change a 2 or 3 port valve in under an hour but would charge more than what you've been quoted to do so. (Including initial call out/diagnosis)
Never heard of anyone turning up to quote for a zone valve change and then having to get back to u because they went sure what was involved.
I would expect to change a 2 or 3 port valve in under an hour but would charge more than what you've been quoted to do so. (Including initial call out/diagnosis)
Never heard of anyone turning up to quote for a zone valve change and then having to get back to u because they went sure what was involved.
Remove the head and try turning the spindle with your fingers. It should turn very easily but only about 20 degrees between stops.
If it's stiff, applying some silicon lubricant (not WD40) where the spindle goes through the plate may help.
A few hours to change a valve? If its an open vented system, I'd bung it and changed the valve. Failing that, the system only needs draining enough to remove the valve.
The sticking is caused by the neoprene seal in the plate which the spindle passes through. This gets contaminated by the muck in the water so the spindle doesn't turn easily..
So exactly as I said then? What good is it to spray lubricant on the dry side? If lubricant could get in then water could get out.
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