How much for 2m high block and render garden wall?

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hi - i've been quoted around £9k (inc. materials and labour) for a block and rendered garden wall; 2m high and 30m long. Would that seem reasonable?
It's not a retaining wall but it is an exposed site so needs to be strong.
Any experience or comments on this price and things to be aware of in the design?
cheers
 
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More info' please......

How is the wall finished on top regards copings etc.

What thickness is the wall.

Are there any pillars.

Acess to the site regards excavation of foundations and removal of spoil. Access to both sides of the wall, in particular damage or protection to lawn on t'uther side.

Is it a straight slab of a wall or are there any dog-legs or deviations.
 
Thanks for replying!
This design was kind of rough so he didn't tell me the full details but i think he said around 30cm thick wall, with a layer of bricks along the top to finish it off, on top of a flat coping stone. Re - piers - he didn't say how many (is there a max width in good practice?).
In terms of access - private driveway - grass one side and tarmac the other (i.e. the driveway) but there's only a fence there currently so we can make the line of the foundations trench entirely within our grass.
Mostly a straight wall although we want it to curve round inwards on the left - last 5 metres.
His quote was based on around £6k for the materials and £3k for the labour.
 
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1. Rendering a free-standing wall is not good practice;

2. A 30m long concrete block wall will need at least one movement joint, otherwise it will crack vertically;

3. At that height, you may need piers if it is an exposed location. 30cm thick seems odd; how is this to be achieved?
 
Re (1) - why is rendering not good practice? I'd asked for it to be rendered as it would then be in keeping with the house....

(2) OK. Will check this is included in his design

(3) Definitely an exposed location. I think he said 3 blocks for the thickness - of the wall but I could be mistaken! Again - for a 2m high wall is there a minimum thickness we ought to go for?

thanks again
 
1. Free-standing walls should not have a damp-proof course at the base because a flexible dpc compromises stability. Because of the lack of damp-proofing at the base, the wall stays permanently damp, and the dampness cannot escape due to the rendering. This can affect the mortar joints if sulphates are present in the ground, and also increase the risk of frost-damage in the winter.
This problem could be partly solved if you had a dpc made of engineering brick set in hard mortar, though the builder may not have included for this.

3. For an exposed location at that height, I would think that 300 thickeness (however obtained) would be a minimum in the absence of regular stiffening piers..
 
Ok - thanks very much for your information - that's very interesting to learn!
Will go back to the drawing board with the builder and ask for further details on the proposed DPC....
Thanks again
 

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