how to brace a fence

[ETAF]

i'm adding a very heavy 42.4mm galvanised black steel pole - mounted on a fence post - thats in ground with metpost
the post is 2m High

I have 3 brackets - 1 will be at the bottom of pole and the pole sits in it - the other 2 are brackets for the pole to pass through - so in that 1m length will be 3 very heavy duty galvarnised bracket

4x4 on wall using anchor bolts resined in - 3 of them for a 1.5mm high 4x4
then a gate 75cm across to a 3x3 metpost - which is where the POLE will be mounted 3m high but 1m brackets on the fence - so 2m in air for a weather station - onlt the anemometer will be at the top - the control unit will be about .5-1m above the fence - so 1.5-2m on the pole

Then another 3x3 post is just 35cm away - all cladded between the posts with rails and wood uprights - didnt measure thosoe

I'm thinking of using some 95x45 that i have and putting thos across the 3x3 - but at an angle - maybe 3 or 4 of those

also a brace from the 4x4 across the gate to the 3x3 - but would be good if i could lifth that off and swing down - not sure how to do that - i'm only .5km from the sea

i have attached a jpg - the green is my proposed plan

any thoughts

 

[Quentin]

Hi! Sounds like a solid plan, especially with that sea wind. Linking the two 3x3 posts with the diagonal 95x45s is a great move—it’ll create a rigid triangle and stop the Metposts from rocking under the mast load. For the drop-down gate brace, I’d just use a single heavy-duty coach bolt through the wall post to act as a pivot. Don't tighten it fully (use a nyloc nut), and it’ll swing down perfectly. On the receiving post, just make a simple wooden slot or 'U' bracket for it to drop into. Lift, swing down, done. Good luck!

 

[ETAF]

thanks for the quick reply

ok, simple as that in fact thats made me think again -
i can just put block on each post and a straight bracket and then the brace just drops over that and will stop side to side as well as back and forth - or as you say just drop in some how - happy about that

but where the angle of the brace goes over the far rght 3x3 - can i just leave it touching the edge of the 3x3 and screw (bolt srews into the post
i dont want to try and cut things at an angle etc etc

new picture

 

[Quentin]

Glad the drop-down idea helps! For the diagonals: Don't worry about cutting angles. It’s just extra work. You can absolutely just let the 95x45 overlap the post and bolt it through as is. Just use Coach Screws (Lag bolts) with a nice big washer. The washer will grip the wood tight even if it's sitting at a slight angle. Simple and strong.

 

[ETAF]

Excellent - will probably have a go tomorrow - WOW thank so much

 

[Quentin]

You're welcome! Let me know how it goes over there.

 

[ETAF]

THANKS
Saturday - i had a go i put the centre piece in and it went well - BUT the top one all twisted - so decided i would mout with 2 coach screws each side - 100mm M8 - which i only purchased Sunday
I will be mounting the diagonal 95x45 wood across the 2 posts and each end will now have M8 100m A2 coach screws - and penny washers
- raining yesterday - so not done it - also I had a R/A aluminium brace - i will put onto the back post to keep it up right
complication now is I thought i had some leveling available on the ISS which would be mounted at fence height - i dont so now the pole has to be 100% correct - or i have to shim it somehow
I'm also thinking of adding a tether from the pole across to my wall - to stop the pole going into neighbours if a disaster - maybe i'm just over the top - but i would hate for this heavy galvanised 42.4mm pole going into neighbours

looking at alternative locations as well - so when i'm 85 not up a ladder to change batteries

now its on atable in the garden

 

[Quentin]

Haha, the point about the ladder is definitely valid! Planning ahead for maintenance is always smart.
The tether is a great idea—better safe than sorry, especially with a heavy pole and neighbors right there. As for the batteries/climbing issue: if you use high-quality Lithium ones (like Energizer Ultimate Lithium), you shouldn't need to climb that ladder for years. They handle the cold much better than alkaline and just keep going.

 

[ETAF]

yep, it takes a CR123 battery - and figures suggest somethign like 8mth to a year - depending on how well the solar panel does - NUT that wil be pointing south - although probably in shadow after 2ish

 

[Quentin]

Ah, I see. That shadow after 2pm is a bit of a pain for the solar charging. 8 months isn't too bad, but I totally get the dilemma—you definitely want to save the knees as much as possible! Hopefully, you won't have to go up there too often in bad weather.

 

[ETAF]

no, you get a 3week warning apparenty - BUT i'm 69 now and only getting older - hopefully will be shinning up ladders well into 80's

 

[JohnD]

I am in a coastal region. Salt spray in storms attacks outdoor steel. I previously used metposts but they rusted away to lace. They are not galvanised. Concrete spurs last fine.

Ordinary coach bolts and BZP studding on the fence posts rusted through and broke.

I now use stainless outdoors.

For the bracing lintel across the top, a bolt at each end will hold it rigid. When you want to tilt it down, just remove one. This is easier with a bolt (with a nut) than a coach screw (with a wood thread). Though I actually use hex headed bolts.

 

[ETAF]

yep, thanks

i have all A2 coach screws
i decided not to bother with the tilting brace - I purchased some flat coated brackets

Dual Coated Heavy Duty Flat Connector Plate

Dual coated heavy duty flat connector plate suitable for outdoor use.• Powder coated steel• 40 x 175mm• Thickness: 3mm• 16 holes at 5mm diameter and 4 holes at 10mm diameter

www.toolstation.com

So i will standoff the same as the wood i use for the baricade and notch it so its very firmly fixed in place

I have purchased the kit to add a wire guide onto the top of the pole and back to the house wall