How to fit this wall mounted bath spout?

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So I've got a three piece wall mounted tap that I'd like to fit in a solid wall in my bathroom (Hudson Reed Topaz - https://www.hudsonreed.co.uk/products/traditional/taps/topaz-hexagonal/BC309HX).

It's back to briclk at the moment ten I'll be adding battens, insulation, aquapanel and tiles so probably won't need to chop out much brickwork. The taps look straightforward enough as they can be attached to the wall first then there's a tight fitting shroud that can be fitted after tiling to cover any gap.

I'm struggling to see how the spout is going to work though. As you see from the picture it's a single piece with a thread on the end and a backnut, as though it's designed to be screwed on from beind. Obviously that won't work for me (or indeed anyone wall mounting!).

The only suggestion I've seen seems to involve using a threaded tee (like the one attached) mounted at precisely the right depth and sufficiently rigidly to support the spout, with the spout screwed in after tiling.

My concern with this is how to get it to be the right depth without knowing things like the thickness of the tiles and adhesive. It seems quite risky because if it ends up too far back there's not a lot that can be done after it's all tiled in and if it's too far forward it will look terrible. Also how to be sure it's not leaking when you can't see behind it after screwing it in. Finally, if it's only attached to the tee piece like that it feels like it could be a bit wobbly!

Has anyone got any experience of fitting something like this? Is it really just a case of stick some ptfe round the thread, screw it in and hope for the best? Or is there some way fo getting a bit of extra tolerance on the depth? Or am I missing something and it's all way more straightforward than I imagine?
 

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Or build the wall/tiles around the board as fitted.

Blup
 
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andrewbrighton,you have chosen hudson reed. please can you tell us the origin & history of manufacturer for your selected super shiney product.
 
Thanks both for the suggestions.

As a bit more context I'll be tiling floor to ceiling then fitting a roll-top shower bath so there won't be any option of access from below. I'll likely do the pipework and pay a tiler though I wouldn't rule out getting a plumber. But either way, plumbing and tiling will be done by separate people so building the wall as I go isn't an option. While the professional tradesperson may easily sort it out, that person also won't be around when the tiling gets done to be responsible for it being right!

I guess I could play around with a threaded connector and see how much tolerance I can get with some ptfe or that loctite stuff

I'm mainly asking now as I've seen the ones with the flange (as suggested by Hot&Cold) and still have the the option at the moment of sending this one back. It does sound like that might reduce the risk further down the line!
 
I suppose if you allow for the thickness of the tile and adhesive plus a little more, that would give a professional tiler the leeway needed, as opposed to leaving the spout potentially standing too proud.

Good luck!

Blup
 
The link from H&C appears to show the manufacturers suggested layout, you could use pipe clips instead of an "adjustable flange". The point being it is the board (that the pipework and taps are fitted to) that is adjusted through its installation between the battens or within the wall.

Blup
 
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Hmm, not sure I understand the bit about the pipe clips substiting for a flange. I get that I can vary the board depth by varying where it's fixed but I can't see how there's any option to do this after it's tiled.

To be honest, I'm fairly certain I could make the depth of any backplate elbow connector end up exactly where I want it, it's just that requires ordering tiles now in order to know the depth and being sure about the depth of adhesive the tiler is going to apply. While do-able this just seems more complicated than it needs to be!
 
I had something like this in mind re the pipe clips which would apparently give rigidity to the overall installation


Blup
 
Yes, that's what I'd seen originally and why I was surprised my own tap didn't have that flange.

Now I understand a bit more about how it works it seems like it could be do-able. Reading other threads it seems like people are having issues with larger mismatches like 10-15mm so maybe a couple of mm isn't a problem and can be accomodated with some loctite 55 on the threads. Still, I'll probably swap it for one with the flange if I can, just to make things simpler, but sounds like it won't be the end of the world otherwise.
 
OP,
that kind of fitting should have been supplied with a diagram showing set-back tolerances from the backing inside the wall to the finished tile surface. is it a stand alone or part of a kit?
given the thickness of tile and aquapanel you might need a 2"x4" stud framing.

in multi-fits in hotels etc the typical kind of valve we would fit is sometimes a three handle controls - hot, diverter, cold. or two handles with the diverter on the spout.
the handles thread into a valve and supply the spout say 150mm below and the shower head say 1200mm above.
what are your shower arrangements?
the spout would have (as above) an adjustable flange on the spout.

just saying, but you can get just as good looking spouts as yours that slip over a 15mm copper stub and are much easier on dimensions for DIY work.
 

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