How to improve uPVC window soundproofing

[andyste]

Our house is a Redrow, built in 2000, and since moving in 10 years ago have always had a problem with soundproofing. It's a quiet estate but the windows are bad enough to hear people having a conversation as they walk past outside. There are a few shift workers nearby, and we're constantly being woken up by them driving past in the early hours. I've blocked up the trickle vents in the rooms where it affects us most (bedroom, living room), which has helped a little, but I'm looking for more suggestions. I don't want to go down the route of complete replacement or even secondary glazing at this stage.

Would replacing the seals and gaskets make much difference? Most articles I've read say that this is to improve draftproofing, with little or no mention of soundproofing.

A neighbour was telling me that she had someone out to replace all the hinges, and she has noticed a "big improvement" in soundproofing. I haven't seen anything to suggest that this is a genuine solution, so is she just experiencing a placebo effect?!

I also wonder whether the design of the windows (bays) could be contributing? Looking at the attached photo, what material makes up the "wall" between lower and upper window? Will it still be brick or something less substantial, as I can't see the lower window taking the weight of such a wall? Also, could there be sound "leaking" in through the boxed in overhang above the bedroom?

One thing I did uncover is that the downstairs bay has been constructed from three panels - a sealing strip fell off inside one day, revealing copious amounts of expanding foam filler and even some daylight. I guess this isn't normal?! I've since filled it with plenty of frame sealant - not ideal I know. The upstairs bay seems to be a single unit, with a clear plastic "weld" between the three sections.

Windows

• andyste
• 1 Oct 2019

 

[Who Cares]

Hi Andyste,
I have exatly the same issue and main reason to join this site. The windows are great and were expensive (parents house) and from a good company (FENSA registered) about 8-9 years ago who are now gone bust. I am told when the installation team were there on the installation day apparently the measurement done by office team was slightly smaller than what was ordered. They left the original window (boards on the inside) and after a visit from their measurer they installed the windows with plenty of expanding foam (I believe). Unfortunately, I was not there to stop this happening and my old parents didn't think too much of it. I visit them often now and I can't stand the noise coming into the house as it's on a busy road. I can feel draught and room is always cold especially in winter. I don't think helping to soundproof and add more material to the sides or under the windows is going to make a difference or triple glazing etc. The old wood windows they had prior to these new double glazing were 80% better in sound insulation and fitted perfectly. I think the solution might be to take the windows out completely, build a arountight framed the windows by concrete or whatever material to get a tight fit without any expanding foam or anything and then put the windows back in. Unless anyone has any other solution? Sounds like the gap is too big and it's just been covered and filled by expanding foam and plastic seals. Any help for solution without taking the windows out (heavy and might have a bar in the middle) would be apricated. Cheers

 

[martin hill]

Hi there. Before you do anything unblock your trickle vents. These are fitted to release moisture from the room. Usually in this style house the tiling between the two windows is plasterbaord rockwool ...felt and batterns and then tiled. Better insulation here and in the void avoid the bedroom window too. I think expanding foam was invented by window fitter so they can do a quicker sloppier job.

 

[JohnD]

that house (what we can see of it) looks identical to one I formerly had, built in 1905. Obviously yours, being a hundred years newer, will be built to different standards.

The tile-hung bay was a timber frame, tiles on the outside, lath and plaster on the inside. It would benefit from dense mineral wool batts, which will muffle noise and improve thermal insulation. It is heavier so better for sound that the lighweight vaiety used in lofts. Adding thicker layers of plasterboard on the inside, with all joints seled with plaster, will also cut noise. If you ever retile the outside, add a breathable membrane as used by roofers, it will prevent water penetration in driving rain. The windows have very likely been bodgily fitted with unfilled gaps round the edges that noise can come through. You may be able to see them if there is a concealing plastic trim you can pry off.

 

[Notch7]

I would look at the following in order:

fill up the trickle vents really well
check all sashes fully compress the weather seal when shut -lock side is adjusted on the espagnolette lock, hinge side is adjusted by moving friction stays a tad
check any tall sashes compress weather seal in centre.
check for gaps with joss stick or a candle -draughts will cause deflection in the smoke or flame.
if the seals have gone hard, you might be able to change them, but they cant always be changed (AFAIK)

when traffic is going by -see if you can you feel any vibration, or touch the window frames and see if you can feel any vibration.
If there is vibration, you will find it impossible to reduce those low frequency sounds.

the section of vertical tile hanging between the bay windows is probably studwork with insulation in between -if it hasnt been done well sound could get through.

 

[Who Cares]

What about me i have 1930's house identical to the above. I think it has a lot of big gaps and as you say sloppy window fitters done a terrible job and concealed the gaps with expanding foam. Is it working having these taken out the frame built properly as you suggest with all the things you mention and then refit? Thanks