How to laquer American Oak

[Basecoat]

Hi All

Trying to finish my kitchen. New solid oak units are in. An old very tired cupboard has been hacked. New American white oak frame is almost ready to go in but it looks dull against the cabinet doors.

I am lead to believe laquer is the answer but don't know anything about it. Cabinet doors being oak and with matt sheen. I would like similar sheen on my Cupboard frame. Can I laquer the frame myself or is it a job for a pro. Thanks in advance.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

You can finish it yourself with clear pre-catalysed lacquer or a brushing bar top lacquer (which is what the french polishers use on pub refurbs). I recommend that you contact a professional wood finish manufacturer/supplier such as Morrells who have a nationwide network of depots and who will be able to advise you on the best approach to take and what in their range will suit your application technique. They can generally match any level of sheen you require from dead matt to ultra high gloss

 

[Jasonb]

I use the water based flooring lacquers quite a bit which are easy to apply, did these units in the matt Aquacote from Smith & Rogers recently

https://vault2.secured-url.com/frenchpolishes/acatalog/Floor_Coatings.html

J

 

[CraigUK8]

Hi Basecoat

Did you find a solution?
I wasn’t quite sure what you meant by the frame looking “dull”.
Are you referring to the colour of it?
An alternative finish which I like for Oak (English and American) is an oil based finish such as Danish oil or Finishing oil (plenty of other different types available each giving differing colours and finishes).
The big advantage with oil finishes is that they are extremely durable.
If I am finishing Oak (and many other hardwoods) that is bare of any previous finishes, an oil finish is my preferred choice.

These salt and pepper mills that I turned have had a battering but finished with finishing oil they still look great in our kitchen:

Cheers.

 

[Basecoat]

Hi Basecoat

Did you find a solution?
I wasn’t quite sure what you meant by the frame looking “dull”.
Are you referring to the colour of it?
An alternative finish which I like for Oak (English and American) is an oil based finish such as Danish oil or Finishing oil (plenty of other different types available each giving differing colours and finishes).
The big advantage with oil finishes is that they are extremely durable.
If I am finishing Oak (and many other hardwoods) that is bare of any previous finishes, an oil finish is my preferred choice.

These salt and pepper mills that I turned have had a battering but finished with finishing oil they still look great in our kitchen:

Cheers.

Hi "craigUK8"

I picked up my oak timber this morning from British Hardwoods. I asked what would be the best to bring out the matt finish to match my solid oak natural doors on my kitchen units. The answer was OSMO Hard Wax Oil is the best.

I said what about danish oil. Danish oil seeps into wood and not as good I was told. Having researched on the net good carpenters suggest danish oil is the best and having looked at your pepper mills I am convinced that is what I am going to have but its struggle to locate Watco danish oil.

have you heard of watco danish oil or any danish oil will do. Apparently watco is best of all.

 

[CraigUK8]

Hi
Danish oil does indeed seep into the wood fibres during application before it sets hard. As does finishing oil and most other oil products. That is precisely why these products prove so durable as not only are they resistant to moisture and other contaminants, the fact that they seep into the surface leaves them working when other alternative surface applicants wear off leaving the wood bare.
In respect of Danish Oil, Rustins for me is my favourite. It sets quickly after application in a warm environment and I like the fact that the tins have metal caps giving longetivity to the product shelf life.
In respect of surface finish:

With oil products you can pretty much put a gloss or mat finish on all of the ones I have used. Provided that you build up the finish it is just a matter of either polishing off the surface after de-nibbing or alternatively cutting back a shiny finish with the necessary abrasive for a satin or mat finish.

Hope this gives food for thought.

 

[CraigUK8]

Just for further food for thought on oil finishes....

This larger item that I turned was from Purplehart and Sycamore, finished with finishing oil:

10 years down the line and it after much use still retains its original finish and still looks good and feels good to hold:

 

[Basecoat]

Hi
Danish oil does indeed seep into the wood fibres during application before it sets hard. As does finishing oil and most other oil products. That is precisely why these products prove so durable as not only are they resistant to moisture and other contaminants, the fact that they seep into the surface leaves them working when other alternative surface applicants wear off leaving the wood bare.
In respect of Danish Oil, Rustins for me is my favourite. It sets quickly after application in a warm environment and I like the fact that the tins have metal caps giving longetivity to the product shelf life.
In respect of surface finish:

With oil products you can pretty much put a gloss or mat finish on all of the ones I have used. Provided that you build up the finish it is just a matter of either polishing off the surface after de-nibbing or alternatively cutting back a shiny finish with the necessary abrasive for a satin or mat finish.

Hope this gives food for thought.

Hi "craiguk8"

Thanks for your rapid response. Danish oil its gonna to be and the finish I am aiming for for mat to match with my kitchen unit doors. As soon as I have done that I will post the pics for you to see. All the best.

 

[CraigUK8]

Do PLEASE remember that Danish oil does darken the finished colour of your timber.

If in doubt try a sample on a bit of waste wood before the final project.

The images that I put up were done in finishing oil which in the case of Sycamore retained its natural colour.

Even though finishing oil gives a shiny gloss finish, it can still be cut back to give a satin or mat finish.

Danish oil by comparrison gives a natural satin finish. However even that once set can be changed to a gloss or mat finish.

Cheers
Craig

 

[maltaron]

If you want to retain the light oak colour, avoid oils, anything other than raw linseed oil will darken the oak. My honest advice is to use "Lord Sheratons Wood Balsam" available from most supermarkets. This will not darken the oak and a couple of applications will match oak cabinet doors.