How to pack the gap underneath bifold doors

[Yukster]

Hi folks. I had my bifold doors installed but there is a 25mm gap between the bottom of the opening made of engineering bricks and the bifold doors frame. The door is screwed to the bricks underneath and there are plastic spacers lodged in the gap in both ends and middle.

What is a good way of sealing that gap to make it weatherproof? Should i pack the gap with 4/1 sand-cement mix with a waterproofer or is there a batter way? Thanks

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Call the fitters back and get them to do the job properly. If that's not an option, as long as all the fixings to the brick are shimmed then expanding foam in the gap, let it go off, trim it flush with the brickwork and silicon on a flat trim strip to cover the gap.

 

[Yukster]

Call the fitters back and get them to do the job properly. If that's not an option, as long as all the fixings to the brick are shimmed then expanding foam in the gap, let it go off, trim it flush with the brickwork and silicon on a flat trim strip to cover the gap.

Thanks. Unfortunately, calling the door company isn’t an option. They and my former builder both argue that it's the other's responsibility to sort this out.

The gap is shimmed with plastic spacers on two sides and in the centre. But I am not sure if that is strong enough hence why I was thinking about sand and cement. Would you still recommend expanding foam?

 

[wessex101]

I would get the door fitters to confirm best method to seal gap and preferably get them to do it. Bifold doors are notorious for needing regular adjustment as they settle and move. You don't want the door company blaming you because your inappropriate filler has caused the sill to distort.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Take it you've paid them then? If the hole in the wall is the size given to the door fitters then they should be sorting it out- if the builder got the hole a bit big then his problem to fix. In theory.

All that said, as long as there's some metal in the bottom track and the screws through the bottom are supported (so they're tight and not deforming the track) then foam will be fine. If you want to use mortar instead then crack on, it'll be a pain and it'll probably crack after a while (thermal effects as well as vibration through the frame) but I can understand why you'd want to put it in, modern door/window fitting methods don't look substantial enough.

 

[theprinceofdarkness]

I think that the PITA bit is that what ever system you use is that you have to stop the filler from just going under the frame to the other side. This is so you can get some pressure on it, or the foam has something to work against. i.e. on the inside cover the hole with bits of plastic bag, then a long batten which is held in place by loose building blocks.
Foam is funny stuff it can exert a really high pressure after it has gone partially off (say after 4 hours) and I would be worried that it might bow the doors bottom frame upwards. Also the PVC cover strip, can you get it in a colour match to the frame?
You can see here this is going!, I would use a 3:1 sharp sand/cement mix which gives you the possibility of putting a taper on the outside to shed water. I would mask the front of the frame and terminate the fillet just under the frame front edge. Going over the bottom of the frame could cause water to get lodged between the frame and the fillet, only to make its way to the inside under the frame. As for the inside, tie it in with your flooring colour/construction.
Frank

 

[^woody^]

Plain mortar

 

[Yukster]

Plain mortar

Thanks

 

[Yukster]

I think that the PITA bit is that what ever system you use is that you have to stop the filler from just going under the frame to the other side. This is so you can get some pressure on it, or the foam has something to work against. i.e. on the inside cover the hole with bits of plastic bag, then a long batten which is held in place by loose building blocks.
Foam is funny stuff it can exert a really high pressure after it has gone partially off (say after 4 hours) and I would be worried that it might bow the doors bottom frame upwards. Also the PVC cover strip, can you get it in a colour match to the frame?
You can see here this is going!, I would use a 3:1 sharp sand/cement mix which gives you the possibility of putting a taper on the outside to shed water. I would mask the front of the frame and terminate the fillet just under the frame front edge. Going over the bottom of the frame could cause water to get lodged between the frame and the fillet, only to make its way to the inside under the frame. As for the inside, tie it in with your flooring colour/construction.
Frank

Sounds like 3:1 sharp sand/cement mix with taper it is. Thanks

 

[catlad]

Never Ever Pay for A Job Until You Are Satisfied

 

[Yukster]

Never Ever Pay for A Job Until You Are Satisfied

To be fair it was my former builder's job. Unfortunately, I'll have to take him to court for a breach of contract which cost me a lot more than this very small job