How To Power Kitchen Cooker Hood?

[EFLImpudence]

AH !!!

Could that be the problem?
I was going to answer instantly that 1mm² will be more than adequate - and it will - on a lighting circuit.

HOWEVER,

there is one silly Table in The Regulations which just suddenly out of the blue tells everyone that 1.5mm² is the minimum size T&E that may be used on a "power circuit" (no, neither do we) although smaller flexible cable may be used.
It is nonsense, don't give it a thought - although it could be what your EICRer had in mind if he is not very knowledgeable.
Does the report reference Table 52.3?

It doesn't answer the fuse size though.

 

[AndyPRK]

Either if it’s off the light circuit.

If your going to put a socket on the end I would try and use 1.5 to future proof.

Or In day light turn the electric off open the fan isolator. And try and use the same size. Assuming you would reckogise the difference

 

[Mr Sparkle]

AH !!!

Could that be the problem?
I was going to answer instantly that 1mm² will be more than adequate - and it will - on a lighting circuit.

HOWEVER,

there is one silly Table in The Regulations which just suddenly out of the blue tells everyone that 1.5mm² is the minimum size T&E that may be used on a "power circuit" (no, neither do we) although smaller flexible cable may be used.
It is nonsense, don't give it a thought - although it could be what your EICRer had in mind if he is not very knowledgeable.
Does the report reference Table 52.3?

It doesn't answer the fuse size though.

No there is no reference to table 52.3

I'm gonna give this a crack over the weekend, using 1mm cable (no socket)

Thanks for your help as well @AndyPRK.. You guys have been fantastic

 

[Mr Sparkle]

Just curious why the cooker hood does not have a earth cable seeing as it is comprised with metal?

 

[EFLImpudence]

It will be a "Class 2" product.

That is, it will have double or reinforced insulation to prevent the carcass becominng live in a fault.
Plus all the works will be in plastic parts.

This is considered safer than earthing. It would be better if everything was like this.

Earthing is not a good thing; just a necessary evil.

 

[ivixor]

Surely an unfused spur from a cooker switch in anything smaller than the cable feeding the cooker switch is undersized?

Whether it's 1.5mm or 2.5mm, it needs a FCU.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Surely an unfused spur from a cooker switch in anything smaller than the cable feeding the cooker switch is undersized?

Not necessarily.

Whether it's 1.5mm or 2.5mm, it needs a FCU.

Cooker hoods are normally connected by an FCU or a plug.

Has anyone suggested not using one?



You would probably be surprised how many of the fuses in the plugs/FCUs of your appliances aren't really necessary.

 

[ivixor]

The OP hasn't mentioned one, only an extractor wired directly into the cooker switch.

 

[EFLImpudence]

There is Andy's post #6 and several other mentions of a socket, also connecting to the lighting circuit where a fuse would not be required.
The discussion has more been about the various wiring methods reather than the electrical requirements.

Cooker hoods come with a lead so there has to be a connection at the end of it where a plug/FCU/flex outlet would be used.

 

[Mr Sparkle]

Wow, this thread seems to have picked up

Just to clear up a few things

1. The cooker hood came with a flexible cable. There was no plug attached to this

2. Following the electrician visit, he removed the kitchen hood wires from my cooker switch (as he said it was dangerous/could melt etc)

3. Subsequently, I have pulled the wire from behind the wall and using a terminal strip (high Amp), I have connected the flexible cooker hood wire to 1mm 2 core + Earth wire

4. The 1mm 2 core + Earth wire has now been fed through the ceiling and this is now connected directly (following AndyPRK's advice) to the extractor isolator switch (see image below). Is this okay?

Please note that the the extractor fan was removed/not being used
I also do have an FCU next to the boiler, however, if it is okay to use the extractor isolator switch, I would prefer that

 

[EFLImpudence]

Yes, it's fine - assuming it is all done correctly.

The joint between the hood flex and T&E should be in a junction box rather than just a terminal strip.
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/ASJ501.html

 

[Mr Sparkle]

Yes, I will connect the hood flex and T&E in a junction box

Thank you for your help.

 

[Mr Sparkle]

Yes, it's fine - assuming it is all done correctly.

Out of curiousity, what sort of things could I have done 'incorrectly?'

I am cautious/nervous about this sort of stuff as I do not want to cock anything up and potentially put any lives in danger

 

[EFLImpudence]

You could have done anything incorrectly. We all make mistakes.

You said:

3. Subsequently, I have pulled the wire from behind the wall and using a terminal strip (high Amp), I have connected the flexible cooker hood wire to 1mm 2 core + Earth wire
4. The 1mm 2 core + Earth wire has now been fed through the ceiling and this is now connected directly (following AndyPRK's advice) to the extractor isolator switch (see image below). Is this okay?

That is ok if you did it correctly.