How to prep bathroom for retiling

[Edufixer]

I have stripped back half the en-suite to the partition wall as the shower tiles plaster board had blown and water had ingressed all around the shower unit. I want to completely re vamp with new shower enclosure etc and tile all walls. Currently half the en-suite is still painted plaster. My question is what is the best way to achieve a flat surface all round so that I can tile? Thanks

 

[roy c]

Don't put plaster board back, you can get proper boards for showers. They are called Hardi backer boards, I think!! You screw them to the original studs with stainless screws and washers. Have a chat with the lads at the place you are getting the tiles from. You could go over to the tiling forum as they will sort you out,,

 

[Richhen]

If you go to wickes you can get aquapanel boards. (Usually on offer 3for2). They are cement boards for this purpose. They are not waterproof but water resistant so they don't break up like standard plasterboard. I did my bathroom with these and they are great. Strong surface to tile directly on.

 

[Happyplumber]

You can use any cement based board but it will need to be tanked at the joints if you want to make it water proof
Also ordinary plasterboard will suffice if you use a tanking kit .
Dunlop,Mapaei,Granfix etc all make them and its a brilliant piece of kit ideal for walls as well as the floor

 

[B17NNS]

You can use any cement based board but it will need to be tanked at the joints if you want to make it water proof
Also ordinary plasterboard will suffice if you use a tanking kit .
Dunlop,Mapaei,Granfix etc all make them and its a brilliant piece of kit ideal for walls as well as the floor

Tanking the joints of cement boards won't make it waterproof. Cement boards aren't waterproof.

Just use regular plasterboard and tank it all. Far cheaper.

 

[Happyplumber]

The board itself is waterproof,the weakness is at the joints which should be protected with the tape provided and then filled with cement based tile adhesive
The whole thing can then be primered and tanked for extra protection
Plasterboard will require all joints to be reinforced with tape and bedded with cement based adhesive and primered
This again can be tanked to create a perfect base for all your tiling

 

[B17NNS]

The board itself is waterproof

Which board are you using that is waterproof?

 

[Happyplumber]

Hardie backer is perfect example

 

[B17NNS]

Hardie backer is perfect example

Hardie isn't waterproof.

 

[roy c]

It worked for me many times !!

 

[B17NNS]

It worked for me many times !!

They do work. They're just not waterproof.

 

[roy c]

You are right they are not waterproof but as long as overlapped edges( (corners) and shower bases are fixed with a good silicone (Dow Corning) a bit more expensive but I have used it for years and no probs. with it. And I think with tiling, done with good named brands of adhesive and proper tools for the job should last for years!! I did my shower out with " large floor-tiles on the walls and epoxy grout between the tiles, it has been in place for over 20 years now and still as good as new. But I did put a"Grohe" shower unit in which then cost me a fortune and its plumbed into the hot water system and is still brilliant..

 

[opps]

Just use regular plasterboard and tank it all. Far cheaper.

Fair enough but you can only tank one side of it. I have seen a few walls where the tiles have blown at the bottom because the shower mixer valve leaked in the cavity.

Plasterboard rots, cement boards don't. Cement boards additionally have twice the load bearing of plasterboard, that said, plasterboard can handle 10mm natural stone and not many people go thicker than that on walls anyway.