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How to price 'New Build' Plumbing/Heating work

Discussion in 'Trade Talk' started by dreadnoughtheating, 19 Jul 2010.

  1. dreadnoughtheating

    dreadnoughtheating

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    This may seem an odd query from from one who considers himself an 'old hand' in the trade, but here goes.(mostly I do heating/boiler upgrades Unvented upgrades, servicing & boiler repairs, tap washers to bathrooms - all in existing structures..), but as my user name suggests - I will do it all!

    Punter wants three quotes for 'first fix' plumbing/heating in a 'self-build'. Apparently the frame/outer skin is almost complete.

    "I don't do new build", I did NOT tell him! But, where do I start?, as an old timer I believe that 'coppers proper', but that is so last century, I know it'll be Speedfit/Hep2o that will be thrown in by the others invited in to quote (and of course with no site security, copper is gonna disappear PDQ anyway.....)

    I am hoping that the building suppliers (Potton?)will have specced up the heating requirements (tho' I am GasSafe reg with the required C&G in Dom htg)

    I guess I would then be doing the poly water main, need a specification for laying that, water meter et-al. It can be tricky guessing where pipes need to come up for rad-valves etc, esp when other trades take liberties when laying that blasted T&G, glued and nailed chipboard flooring that adds so much to the structural integrity of the buildng.

    So c'mon guys, can you spill the beans (so to speak) as to how you would price it. (Dayworks & Cost + perhaps?)

    All assistance acknowledged.

    DH

    (as this is an open forum, a PM is an other option?)
     
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  3. 1john

    1john

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    When doing electrical work, I work out everything on a unit price for jobs like this, easy! However with other types of work I tend to try and calculate how long the job will take me in days, allow a day rate for that, if I will need a mate with me, his day rate is added on, then the material cost is added on, and then so you dont trip up I add on a percentage depending on how tricky things looked. As for rad tails, I would suggest bringing them up the wall and out about 2" above skirting level, if it is a timber frame I would put a noggin in with a tightish hole so it cant be moved about alot by other people, if it is a wet build then clip the hell out of the pipe so it cant be moved. As for the t&g, put that if the flooring damages your work you will have to charge to rectify and problems and you will only start rectifying the work once a price has been agreed on.

    Hope this gives you a starting point to work from :)
     
  4. jackpike

    jackpike

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    i do new build,
    first fix
    a average 3 bed semi for instance will take 30mtrs of 22mm 70 mtrs of 15mm pipe and 50 mtes 10mm,
    soil kit waste pipes
    2/3 days
    second fix, fit boiler rads bathsuit and ensuit and cloaks
    3 days. fill and test
    final fix,
    kitchen sink, shower kit toilet seats commision and sign off,
    1 day
    6/7 days + matri'l+running costs+profit %
    labour charges are for plumber and mate,
     
  5. dreadnoughtheating

    dreadnoughtheating

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    Went for a dekko tonite.

    'Kinell, its a four bedroom two bathroom jobbie, rainwater harvesting, wants AirSource heatpumps for the ufh, buffer tank for a 300 litre UVHWSS

    No mains Gas....... walk? or stuff in a silly high price and hope I don't get it....

    Hmm, breakfast meeting required with another company I 'sub-off' methinks

    Waiting for a set of plans to send off to, say, UPONOR for an UFH specification.

    Thanks guys, but keep'em coming

    DH
     
  6. dazza87

    dazza87

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    i did 3 houses once but was on day rate for a gypsy never again the gypsy not the houses!Most new houses are speedfit easy when you have done one all rads are connected with 10mm from a manifold.just put a back box behind where the rads going and leave tails sticking out and cap and test.Go around a show house you will see what i mean.
    as for the ground source etc no idea might be worth post in combustion chamber and do the job with one of them guys most are decent.
     
  7. skenk

    skenk

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    If you're not sure how long it's gonna take etc. go for the silly high price and if you do get it at least you'll be able to do a proper job and not be left out of pocket. If you don't get it, never mind because you didn't spend too long working out the details and costs beforehand.
     
  8. greemyamochop

    greemyamochop

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    Pretty standard stuff to be honest mate and UHF makes it easier

    Let me know more and ill give you what id charge

    The heat pump will need sizing by the manufacturers so will the UFH

    Uponor are excellent mate and id try NIBE for the heat pump

    The last one i did of similar size was;


    Supply and install the following

    - Uponor underfloor heating to ground floor
    - 5 radiators to first floor
    - 2 towel rails in bathrooms
    - 11 KW Nibe PAW003B air source heat pump and associated controls
    - 210 litre unvented hot water cylinder

    Run supplies and install the following items suppled by customer

    - 2 bathrooms
    - 1 cloakroom
    - 1 kitchen
    - 1 utility room

    Labour and materials £15,775.51
    VAT at 0% £00,000.00
    Total £15,775.51
     
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