How to remove broken post?

[Homervanderjazz]

So I have a rotten gate post which I tried to remove. Unfortunately part of it broke and is stuck in the hole.

I can try to dig around it and remove the concrete as well as the broken post.

However, the hole is an almost perfect fit with concrete at each side. So if I could remove this broken post I could simply pop in another one.

Is there a way to remove the broken part of the post from the hole whilst leaving the surrounding earth/concrete as is? Thanks for any help

 

[ETAF]

not a direct answer to your question, i have used these a few times on broken posts - quite successfully on fences 6ft high
https://www.screwfix.com/p/sabrefix-fence-repair-spike-75-x-75mm-2-pack/23093
for 3x3 posts,
I also used on a shorter 4x4 post but that was only 4ft high
https://www.toolstation.com/drive-in-repair-spike/p69167

I prefer the versions with a bolt so you can ensure the post is secured.
Some version have a splin in the post and i have found these not so reliable

But - only a DIYer and used on about 6 posts in total over the years

 

[Tigercubrider]

You could try-some people have done it.
Possibly use a chisel to dig the wood out?
You'd need to add a bit more concrete in all likelihood- clean the existing concrete as well as possible and water the old concrete before adding new- just enough to prevent the old stuff sucking the moisture from the new concrete. This helps the new and old concrete to bond.

Another way is to jack the old post and concrete out- easier if some of the post remains

 

[Wayners]

I'd dig around concrete. Cut a V with disc cutter and smack at the V point. Concrete will split. You can use something small like a masonry chisel or pick axe. I'm still amazed this works every time I do it. Remember years ago with small angle grinder and hammer and masonry chisel and big peace of concrete with onlookers taking mick. Took a while and some hammering but I split it for transport. That shut them up...
Not what your asking but plan B

 

[Homervanderjazz]

not a direct answer to your question, i have used these a few times on broken posts - quite successfully on fences 6ft high
https://www.screwfix.com/p/sabrefix-fence-repair-spike-75-x-75mm-2-pack/23093
for 3x3 posts,
I also used on a shorter 4x4 post but that was only 4ft high
https://www.toolstation.com/drive-in-repair-spike/p69167

I prefer the versions with a bolt so you can ensure the post is secured.
Some version have a splin in the post and i have found these not so reliable

But - only a DIYer and used on about 6 posts in total over the years

I have a 100mm thick post, prob about 6 foot, would the toolstation spike work alright for this you think?

also the broken stub is not level with the concrete, probably about 6 inches below, will this make a difference? Thanks

 

[conny]

I had this when I moved my gateposts closer to the road, (they were set back about 12' from the boundary for some unknown reason losing a lot of parking space), and I simply drilled a series of holes down to make the wood like swiss cheese. Using a long lever bar I broke the wood into slivers and pulled them out of the hole. Once cleaned out I filled the hole with a fresh mix of concrete.

 

[Homervanderjazz]

I had this when I moved my gateposts closer to the road, (they were set back about 12' from the boundary for some unknown reason losing a lot of parking space), and I simply drilled a series of holes down to make the wood like swiss cheese. Using a long lever bar I broke the wood into slivers and pulled them out of the hole. Once cleaned out I filled the hole with a fresh mix of concrete.

I have been trying this method today, I am now 10 inches down. However, the diameter of the hole is small so the drill is now catching one the sides and the bits are not long enough to go down further. Am now thinking of buying extra long spade bits. Do you think this will work? Thanks

 

[conny]

I have been trying this method today, I am now 10 inches down. However, the diameter of the hole is small so the drill is now catching one the sides and the bits are not long enough to go down further. Am now thinking of buying extra long spade bits. Do you think this will work? Thanks

Yes, you do need to get some long drill bits. Spade ones are good if you can manage to get into the remains of the original holes, if you can't it will wobble and rattle all over the place. When I got too deep for my spades I changed for long length 10mm twist bits and kept 'backing off' to remove the damp shavings in the flutes. Patience is the key word.

 

[Homervanderjazz]

Yes, you do need to get some long drill bits. Spade ones are good if you can manage to get into the remains of the original holes, if you can't it will wobble and rattle all over the place. When I got too deep for my spades I changed for long length 10mm twist bits and kept 'backing off' to remove the damp shavings in the flutes. Patience is the key word.

Am now a foot and half down, I am thinking of using a 75mm wide post instead of the 100mm I was intending. The reason for this is that this will allow the post to fit in easier and also leave some space for some fresh concrete/postcrete. do you think this will work alright?

The other option would be to fit the 100mm post but there is no room for additional concrete to be put down. Would make it a tight but sturdy fit if I can manage to get the post to the right depth I guess

 

[conny]

The rule of thumb is 1/3 in the ground and 2/3 above. Will your post be 6' high above the ground? If yes then I would advise trying to get the extra 6" out. However, if it is going to be less than 6' above ground level then you are probably ok to fit the new post in what you have dug down to. It depends what is attached to the post which will determine if you can go down to 75mm. As a fence post it should be ok but if it is supporting a gate then it may be advisable to try and stay with the 100mm. With a good masonry bit, (e.g. 6mm x 300mm long), you could chain drill a series of holes along 2 sides and then break the sides away with a club hammer and cold chisel. This will give you room to pour in some fresh concrete for the new post and maybe finish off around the base by flaunching the top, (bring the concrete up in a slope on the surface to help hold the post in position.

 

[JohnD]

The other option would be to fit the 100mm post but there is no room for additional concrete to be put down. Would make it a tight but sturdy fit if I can manage to get the post to the right depth I guess

If you have a post that is a close fit into an existing concrete socket, you can make it tight by trickling fine sand into the gap. It will pack down and prevent the post from moving

Damp sand will not move, but sand that is either perfectly dry (fom a hot kiln) or completely wet (washed down with water) will run. So you can add sand and trickle water after it with a teapot and it will consolidate into the gap.

Once in the hole, it will settle down to be damp, which is what you want. Make sure it is wedged perfectly vertical first because you will not be able to move it afterwards. Though if you blast a jet washer into the gap you might be able to get it out.

As it is a tall gatepost, attach a wooden "lintel" betweem the tops of the two posts. This will brace them and prevent them leaning together or apart.