How to trim a door jamb along its internal edge? Door won't close properly

8 Feb 2015
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United Kingdom
Hi all.

My lovely new internal door won't easily close because the inner/hinge-side edge of the door is too tight against the jamb, when it's being closed.

I want to trim a mm or 2 off the inner edge of the jamb, so the door can close properly, and sit flush against it.

I'd prefer to do it in-situ, and not to remove the jamb, as I'm only looking to remove a mm or so.

Was planning to run a router up it, removing a mm, and then tidy up the ends (where the router won't obv reach) with a bit of sanding.

Anyone got any other tips on how to do this easily?

The hinges on the door are definitely in the right position. They're old frames/jambs, and the previous doors had obviously been quite seriously altered to accommodate the proportions of the doorway.

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Pain in the backside because the hinges are too close to the baton.
I would use a detail sander with 80 grit on the baton and protect the frame with a metal blade (i keep a cream spreader for cakes in my toolbox).
Then finish with finer sandpaper and paint that bit.
Good point, I hadn't even considered a detail sander. My solution was much too complicated . I might give it a bash today.
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You need to re-site the door by moving the hinge out on the frame or the door edge.
Woody, it's only a mm or 2.
Closing the screw holes and drill new ones will become even more difficult, especially for a diyer.
Also, the op doesn't fancy taking the door off the hinges.
Obviously I run the risk of removing too much, and affecting the look of the jamb/doorway.

But I think this is unlikely, and is worth the risk!
I doubt that the stop can be trimmed down to leave a dead straight and square edge.

Remember the the stop on the frame head will need reducing too.

Undue the hinges, glue some dowels or matches/shavings in the holes, re-site the door. That has to be less work and quicker then messing about bodging the frame.
you could try knocking in slithers or matchsticks tightly into the screw holes then a bradawl at the extreme edge between packing and hole edge and because the hole will be no7 gauge about 3.8mm will move it to the edge at around 1.4mm as the matchsticks are softer so most off the screw will push into the old hole but a mm or so away
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If they once fitted it could be a build up of years of paint causing the problem. You could try to remove all the paint off the edge with a stripper and repaint.
Thanks all, it worked!

Which option worked?

Personally, I would have used the match stick option. The problem with your door stop option is that if, you were, for example, to remove 2mm from the hinge door jam, you might need to remove 2mm from one side of the header door stop down to 0mm at the opposite side.

I am confused though, the door is new. Why has the corner been rounded over?
Didn't need to alter the hinges, in the end. Trimmed about 2mm off the inside edge of the jamb with a multitool sander. Works perfectly
Woody, it's only a mm or 2.
Closing the screw holes and drill new ones will become even more difficult, especially for a diyer.
Also, the op doesn't fancy taking the door off the hinges.

A Diyer that (seemingly) hung a new door and is talking about using their router?

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