A
ALEC1
I imagine Norcon you speak from experience, which electronic mixing valve did you use?
Huge house, 4 bath, Vitodens 222-F storage combi or other
- Thread starter DrTooth
- Start date
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Enough experience to know a 2 kw boiler on 600sq/m of ufh with a heat loss of 10kw would be an absolute disaster.
Valves I've fitted are Danfoss, Honeywell etc.Mostly industrial/commercial and thousands of them.
How many top end controllers have you hooked up to large residence ufh projects?
Valves I've fitted are Danfoss, Honeywell etc.Mostly industrial/commercial and thousands of them.
How many top end controllers have you hooked up to large residence ufh projects?
A
ALEC1
I agree with that, but read what I said:
Nothing about 600m2...
Nothing about 600m2...
A
ALEC1
large residential is my market although i have retrofitted three RAV 46s to two 50kw geminox boilers... actual heat out put of the floor was about 40kw, and the whole building more like 70kws...(hence the two boilers fitted by others!)
its the floor output that the manufacturers do their calculations for pipe and pump sizing and spacing and very often their is a discrepancy between actual heat loss. They then state additional heating sources may be required!
its the floor output that the manufacturers do their calculations for pipe and pump sizing and spacing and very often their is a discrepancy between actual heat loss. They then state additional heating sources may be required!
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A
ALEC1
when I was suggesting that 2kw could maintain temperature of a house with 10kw heat loss I was suggesting that 2kws could well be enough to maintain an inside temperature as no no heat up time required the system is running in a stable state, so everything is at temperature and maintained at temperature..
if the heat loss calc was for 10kw, that would be at -3c...but generally in london at least if we saw -3c it would be for a couple of hours at 5.00am...anything above that the heat loss is significantly less.
UFH systems use a great deal of energy stopping and starting, and it makes sense to run them pretty well continuously...as the load varies.. it also makes sense to vary the input into the floor with variable flow temperatures, not fixed ones...
if the heat loss calc was for 10kw, that would be at -3c...but generally in london at least if we saw -3c it would be for a couple of hours at 5.00am...anything above that the heat loss is significantly less.
UFH systems use a great deal of energy stopping and starting, and it makes sense to run them pretty well continuously...as the load varies.. it also makes sense to vary the input into the floor with variable flow temperatures, not fixed ones...
M
mysteryman
Taking that plus earlier points raised here, always get the equipment all from the same manufacturer. You wouldn't put a Mercedes gearbox in a BMW.
So, get your controls from the same source as your boiler and cylinder. It will all be plug and play. This means weather compensation, which will modulate the flow temperature to suit outdoor temperature.
So, get your controls from the same source as your boiler and cylinder. It will all be plug and play. This means weather compensation, which will modulate the flow temperature to suit outdoor temperature.
Lol you guys are a suspicious lot. I referred it to as house because I did not want to bother going into the full story.
Well here it is.
A developer was building a building over 3 floors with 19 apartments.
He ran out of money so sold me the top floor completely unfinished.
I am now in the process of finishing it to make one large apartment for me and my family.
All I wanted was some advice really, system boiler or combi store??
Thanks for the helpful feed back
Well here it is.
A developer was building a building over 3 floors with 19 apartments.
He ran out of money so sold me the top floor completely unfinished.
I am now in the process of finishing it to make one large apartment for me and my family.
All I wanted was some advice really, system boiler or combi store??
Thanks for the helpful feed back
Right, so its not a house and you are not building anything!
You have bought the top floor as an empty shell to finish as a large flat.
These may not seem relevant to you but for a heating engineer there can be important aspects to be taken into account.
Whats the type and thickness of ceiling insulation?
Tony
A
ALEC1
three floors, one for each floor...
Alex and Norcon are having their own private discussion about heating systems with two 50 kW Geminox boilers and underfloor heating.
I thought that I was one of the very few who would consider fixing Geminox boilers.
Tony
I thought that I was one of the very few who would consider fixing Geminox boilers.
Tony
Yes more or less correct, we still had to do some building work as we took out very large areas of the roof to change it shape and get rid of a lot of sloping areas.
Celling insulation / roof I do not know of the top of my head however I know there is one thin 20mm layer of Celotex board with a much thicker layer of Celotex under that (maybe 100mm).
this is what she looks like at the moment
http://i872.photobucket.com/albums/ab283/nastytooth/The Flat/Dormerinterior.jpg
Lets guess that the roof only has 100 mm of Celotex as insulation.
Suppose its an area of say 700 sq m then can anyone calculate or guess the heat loss with say a 22 C temperature difference? ( 21 C inside and -1 C outside )
I am trying to estimate the likely heat loss from the property.
Tony
Suppose its an area of say 700 sq m then can anyone calculate or guess the heat loss with say a 22 C temperature difference? ( 21 C inside and -1 C outside )
I am trying to estimate the likely heat loss from the property.
Tony
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