Humidity Control for model rail room

Joined
11 Oct 2013
Messages
156
Reaction score
6
Location
Yorkshire
Country
United Kingdom
Hi,

Been helping out on a model rail room 8x5 ft which is in an extension to an external garage.
It has block walls and then 75mm of insulation before a plasterboard lining.

Though generally feeling quiet dry, a couple of large kilrock moisure traps do fill up over a month or two and after use when we open the door and start go outside, you become aware of the humidity within the room.

So because of the cost of the model rail these days, its understandable they realy want to try and keep things as dry as possible.

There are 120mm high and low level vents, but they have been sealed off, for better or worse ?

Thing is, not sure the best way to control the humidity, should we operate a small fan on the vents when in there, or leave it running all the time or fit a fan with a humistat ?

Even looked at using the small peltier type dehumidifiers, as the full sized ones seem rather expensive and overkill for such a small room.

Any suggestions very welcome on how to keep it as dry as possible.

thanks.
 
Sponsored Links
I think you really need to ascertain if the room is damp or not.....do the windows run with condensation, for example?
The wall construction isn’t ideal, but you’re stuck with that.....I’d go for a small 1 litre dehumidifier or maybe a bigger one....they are adjustable to a degree.
An automated humidity fan is really designed to deal with bathrooms after showering.
John :)
 
Hi,

The "room" is totally enclosed, no windows, just a solid thick insulated door.

It generally feels dry, no signs of any drips or anything like that, but with all the models metal parts they want to ensure corrosion is not a long term problem.
After a couple of hours use, you do notice how the humidity has built as mentioned above.
Am building a Dht22 humidity sensor to record how high it actually gets.

Have seen a couple of small dehumidifiers but seems they operate 15c and above. so not sure how effective they would be as the room is unheated when not in use ?
Do either of these look suitable if used via a timer ?
https://www.appliancesdirect.co.uk/...MI09fZ_ZfT5gIVVIfVCh0K9gv3EAQYBCABEgJ56_D_BwE
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-500M...hash=item282bf657f5:m:m7kb6SIecoZikGMa9L4F9Mg

The walls are 100mm thick heavy concrete blocks, externally sealed/painted, vapour barrier, 75mm insulation and plasterboard, can you say what would have been a better method, though a bit too late to change now, would be interesting to know for any future build.
 
Links in this post may contain affiliate links for which DIYnot may be compensated.
The best construction is still the cavity wall type, but you are where you are.....
The traditional dehumidifier really needs to be left on all the time - expect consumption to be 100W or so.
I can’t comment on the non refridgerated units, Im afraid but the warmer the room is the more effective they are.....below 15degrees and they slow up big time.
By all means install a wall extractor, but air will need to get in the room too.....some form of heating like an oil filled radiator would also be beneficial.
John :)
 
Sponsored Links
If room is sealed when not in use then moist Air cannot enter so does not require removal .
The passive method used currently should be ok .
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top