I dislike Trickle vents

The DG vendors should have screamed blue murder!!

They were never consulted, and as soon as they found out they did scream blue murder ( and still are ) unfortunately it is falling on very deaf ears. The window Installers are even pushing for better vents too
Sponsored Links
The theory is simple and is justified as the following, quoted from the document linked to at the top of this page:

Replacing the windows is likely to increase the airtightness of the dwelling. If ventilation is not provided via a mechanical ventilation with heat recovery system, then increasing the airtightness of the building may reduce beneficial ventilation in the building.
In these circumstances, it is necessary to ensure that the ventilation provision in the dwelling is no worse than it was before the work was carried out.

The forum is awash with threads about mouldy walls, excessive condensation and other internal damp problems.
Sorry, I do not require the nanny state to wipe my b*tt*m!
Hi again, I have taken down these plastic covers on all the downstairs windows.
I had it blocked completely on the inside since winter. Haven't noticed any condensation or humidity going over 52% as of yet.

Can I simply fill in the holes with expanding foam?
Then cut the excess and I was going to cover it with two layers duct tape then aluminium insulation tape on top.
What do you think?

Alternatively I would have to come up with some DIY covers that would match the old one.

I think this being left unblocked allow the cold air to penetrate the frame and I reckon lower the temp of the whole window defeating "double" layer.

Sponsored Links
I've just fitted 26 residence 9 windows, some of which have trickle vents. The good news is that the construction of the frames means that it's only the header bar which will fill with cold air, not the entire frame as I originally thought. I did open out one vent to fit a sleeve from front to to back but the groove had to be opened out too far for the cover to fit properly. In my case the building inspector told me that because my original plans were passed some years ago (kept live because we started work) I should do what my architect put on my plans. I've gone for 8,000 square mm per room, which is what he specified, except in those bedrooms with just one small window where I opted for 5000. Because the rooms are pretty open plan I can easily achieve 8000 square mm per area. I'm going to try the vents out to see how draughty they are and I can then take off the covers (screw and clip) and stuff some pipe lagging to fill the holes if they're too draughty. Building control haven't been to inspect yet so I'll update once I've had my visit. Incidentally, the FENSA certificate is only a document telling the customer that the windows have been fitted to BC specification so is not in any way a guarantee. In my opinion an actual inspection from BC is worth more than a FENSA certificate for windows which haven't actually been inspected.
In my opinion an actual inspection from BC is worth more than a FENSA certificate for windows which haven't actually been inspected.

Can't really argue with that but the draw back with using BC is if they fail the job they will make you rip out all the windows that don't comply whereas a FENSA installer just wants to get paid
Good point, but if they do fail I can just drill holes and put vents in. they're pretty easy to buy online. I won't be having an inspection for a while but will post the outcome.

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.

Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local