Ideal FF380 boiler fires up when CH & HW OFF. Pls help!!

[a03227]

Dear EXPERTS,
After a successful outcome previously, I've come back after several years needing some more help! I hope the below information is sufficient, but please ask if I've missed anything.

PROBLEM
My Ideal FF380 boiler fires intermittently (every 10 mins for about 2 mins at a time) even when both CH & HW are switched OFF on the timer. It works perfectly other than this. I've been switching the boiler on&off using the main switch for the last few months which requires early morning wake ups to switch hot water on in advance of my family members needing a shower! I'm tired as a result!

DETAILS
I have the following:
- Ideal FF380 Classic fanned flue boiler
It's approx 8 yrs old
- I have a Lifestyle LP241 timer programmer

MY INVESTIGATION SO FAR...
I'm no expert but having been advised by people at work, I've disconnected the timer (Lifestyle LP241) from the wiring and problem still occurs. Am I right to conclude then that it isn't the timer? My colleague at work suggests it must something in the boiler.

Any suggestions as to what to do next will be most welcome! [/b]
Anya

 

[cross thread]

have you got zone valves ? if so one of the end switches has stuck

 

[a03227]

have you got zone valves ? if so one of the end switches has stuck

Thank you so much for your reply. I have 2 valves if I understand your question correctly.
- Danfoss type HPA2
- Honeywell motorised valve V4043H1056

Is there a way in which I can check whether the switch has actually stuck and if yes, do I need to replace the valve or can I fix the switch somehow?

I hope this answers your question but if not, please could you advise me where to look.

Many many thanks!
Anya

 

[adlplumbing]

has your boiler got a frost stat

 

[a03227]

Hi, I'm pretty sure it hasn't got a frost stat but just to be sure, pls could you advise how I can confirm this please.
Many thanks,
A damsel in distress!

 

[adlplumbing]

where the boiler located

 

[Agile]

My thought would be that there is water leaking onto the switch in one of the motor valves.

Can you look at them and see if there is any sign of water or corrosion?

I dont think that boiler has any inbuilt frost protection but others could confirm that.

Tony

 

[adlplumbing]

prity sure this one has not got one built in
i am thinking garage which gone cold

 

[a03227]

Dear all, thank you so much for your advice.
In ref to the questions, I can clarify the following:
1. Theboiler is located in the utility room. I don't believe it has a frost stat but I'm happy to check if someone could point me' in the right direction.
2. I opened up each valve and confirmed both valves operate freely and the motors both operate.

I'm wondering if the pcb board in the boiler might be the cause. Is there any other ideas or advice anyone could offer me' to fix this frustrating problem.
Many thanks for all the advice so far. I feel as if I'm getting somewhere at last.
Thank you,
Anya x

 

[candoabit68]

Hi I have the same thing wrong with my ariston euro A23 it comes on by itself but wont deliver hot water and cant be turned off,
your boiler does have a thermister and if it not working like i suspect mine to it will cause the boiler to think that it is cold and turn on randomly, see link http://www.pdqspares.co.uk/index.php/thermistor/thermistor-ideal-classic-ff380-boiler.html

 

[namsag]

3227
Gordongas has gave you correct diagnosis . It is a stuck micro switch in one of the motorised valves to find out which one is stuck
With clock set to off
go into terminal box
And you will see that the valves have an orange wire.
Turn power off and disconnect 1 orange at a time turning power on being careful as the orange could still be live and see which one stops the boiler and pump coming on this is the one with faulty switch

 

[a03227]

Thanks again.
I've opened the valves to find the orange wires. They're both soldered on which I'll try and disconnect. I could do with some clarification on how exactly diagnose which microswitch is faulty. I understand as below:
1. Disconnect one orange wire.
2. Switch power on and switch HW & CH to ON.
3. With pump and boiler on, touch orange wire to terminal.
4. If boiler stops, this is the faulty switch.
5. If boiler and pump continue, switch is ok.
6. Solder orange wire back on to terminal.
7. Repeat for second valve if necessary.

The fact that the CH does not come on when the boiler works by itself, does thisindicate it's probably the HW valve that is no good.

Also, once I've confirmed which switch is no good can I replace the microswitch or do I haveto replace the whole valve?
Many thanks for great advice.
Anya x

 

[cross thread]

disconnect orange at wireing centre,when you know the faulty one the valve head will need to be replaced

 

[a03227]

disconnect orange at wireing centre,when you know the faulty one the valve head will need to be replaced

Thank you.

Apologies for being a pain but could I confirm my understanding of the "wiring centre". Do you mean the wiring at the back of the timer or in the valve itself?

Also, I've just checked the pump. It doesn't stop running unless I turn off at the isolator switch. I just wondered if this changes things.

I really really appreciate all the expert advice. I'm certainly closer than I was trying to figure this out on my own!

 

[namsag]

The wire that comes out of the valve goes to a junction box this is where to disconnect the orange wire