Ignis ADL350 Dishwasher - 'Steam' problem

[miffy93]

Hi, Hope someone can help with my query.

About a year and a half ago we had the above dishwasher installed & everything has been fine.

Last week however I noticed that the laminate had started to come away from the underside of the worktop just above the dishwasher door (slightly off center and to the left, the right hand side doesn't seem to be affected).

I've also noticed that the top of the adjacent cupboard door has started to swell (just above the hinge).

At first I put this down to us opening the dishwasher door not long after it's finished so that the dishes can cool down & be put away - however yesterday I made sure that the door wasn't opened until a few hours after it had finished and noticed water (steam?) just above the hinge of the cupboard door mentioned above).

I've read various posts where people mention moisture barrier strips but this doesn't seem to have any fitted.

If this is the problem though why could it have only just started now and not sooner, like I said it'd been installed for a yr and a half.

Sorry for the long post, wanted to give as much info as poss.

Thanks in advance for any help/advice.

 

[zipper]

Ignis is made by Whirlpool. Several Ignis/W.pool models have had trouble with escaping steam, especially during the hottest cycles. This may not have happened when the machine was new but can be caused by repeated expansion/contraction over time. As a workaround they came up with a replacement door hook which essentially "tightens up" door closure. I cant find a picture of the device but it is a simple plastic hook with an extra location groove that takes up door slack. You simply replace the old one. It has part number 481240118887 & costs around £13. Note down the machine 12nc service number on the door sticker & give Whirlpool a call. They'll tell you if your model is one of the affected.

 

[miffy93]

Thanks for the info.

Is the door hook the grey plastic thing that sticks out of the top/front of the dishwasher, if so how do you get to it?

Also, if it's a known fault, do you think I would be in for compensation for the worktop/door?

 

[zipper]

Yes it is the grey plastic thing. If your DW is emitting steam due to tolerance issues then it would qualify for a warranty repair within guarantee period. They would not be obliged to give you a new dishwasher but it may happen in some cases (again within warranty). I can't answer you on any kind of retro-claim for kitchen unit damage outside warranty period but it doesn't sound at all unreasonable to ask. You really have to speak to Whirlpool. Have the nameplate details/purchase date ready & make sure the door seal is intact before you call. Describe what has happened & ask them if your model is affected by service bulletin 4812 718 40204 which outlines this particular glitch (BTW I didn't tell you that bit )...

 

[miffy93]

Have managed to find a copy of the service bulletin online.

Gave them a call but their 'customer care' dept isn't open now until Monday, will try again then.

By the way how easy is it to replace the door hook - do you just 'squeeze' the prongs on the existing one to get them away from the top of the dishwasher?

I don't have to pull the whole blimmin thing out do I?

 

[zipper]

It should just be a case of nipping the door hook a little & pulling it towards you to remove it.
You may have to draw the DW forward a couple of inches & lift the top insulation up a bit to check the right groove engages in the locking profile when fitting the new one.

 

[miffy93]

It should just be a case of nipping the door hook a little & pulling it towards you to remove it.
You may have to draw the DW forward a couple of inches & lift the top insulation up a bit to check the right groove engages in the locking profile when fitting the new one.

Hi,

Have (finally!) managed to get my hands on a modified door hook & just attempted fitting it.

The old one came out easily and the new one goes in easily, but, i can only get the new one into the same position as the old one (if that makes sense).

In other words I can only push the new one in as far as the first set of grooves (ie just like the old one) and not the 'new' set of grooves (which are nearer to the front of the door hook).

Do I need to be a bit more forceful (don't want to break anything)?

 

[zipper]

Nip the open end together (not too much) when you slot it in.

 

[miffy93]

Nip the open end together (not too much) when you slot it in.

I've done that & the first groove fits easily, but it looks like the plastic is too tight for the hole - unless I need to really force it.

It's the 2nd set of grooves that are causing the prob & I don't want to use too much force in case I damage something.

Should it definitely fit in the 2nd set of grooves?

 

[zipper]

The modified hook should fit in the second (deeper) slot. It is clearly shown in the bulletin diagram. To tighten the door the latch mechanism has to be a couple of mm nearer the rear of the machine. Have you compared the length of new hook compared to the old one? If you have that much trouble fitting it then as a last resort you could try trimming a little off the step on the leading edge of the deep slot (so it looks more like the original profile).

 

[miffy93]

They appear to be identical in size, it's just that the new latch seems to get 'stuck' at the first set of cutouts and doesn't want to move further back when I squeeze it.

Suppose I am trying to do it without taking the DW out.......might have to try that (didn't really want to start messing around with it though).

What's the easiest way I can get it out so I can get my hand in the top and squeeze the latch from the top rather than the front?

 

[zipper]

I guess you didn't install it yourself?
You will need to take off the plinth under the front door, remove the securing screws (if any were used), & perhaps lower the legs a little. You only need to pull it forward enough to get at the latch from above. Dig out your installation guide or download it from the Whirlpool site, it shows you the complete installation process...just reverse engineer it.

 

[miffy93]

I didn't install it myself - it was put in when we had a new kitchen last year.

So, have managed to get the new latch fitted (and using the correct slots), but when I do this the door won't shut. It's now as if there isn't enough plastic coming out of the front of the DW to grab hold of the door.

When I move the new latch to the original position the door shuts, as it did before.

Am I doing something really wrong here?

 

[zipper]

I doesn't sound like you are doing anything wrong. But I know these models had a lot of problems with escaping steam & this is the workaround. The difference between the two latch positions isn't much, maybe a couple of mm or so. So it is difficult to say exactly what is happening & why the door won't close properly in the new position. Is the cross-bar where the lugs sit loose/bent/deformed? are the door switch screws loose? Is the door seal properly in place? Maybe you will have to "trial & error" a little. Check the above then take a peek at the corners of the door seal to see if it is properly in place & not deformed. Put the latch back in the original position then smear some cooking oil on the door seal, close the door then open it & check where you don't have an "oil print" on the inner door.

 

[miffy93]

Thanks.

Sorry to sound numb, but:-

1) Where can I find the door switch screws?

2) Is the door seal the thinnish grey rubber/plastic strip thing that runs down either side of the DW?