I'm scared to change the oil because I think I stripped the sump threads last time, but it needsdoin

[Rightboy91]

Had same problem with my old astra when a "mechanic" stripped the sump thread.
I managed to seal this
https://www.quickvalve.co.uk
With a thread paste and never leaked again.
Something to explore.

thank you I will consider but the idea of sealing it with paste doesn't seem permanent or a true repair

 

[Burnerman]

Initially you will need to find out what size the sump plug is before you can think about tapping a thread for a new one. So, either you take the old plug out for measuring or you buy a new plug from a supplier.
If the thread in the sump is stripped then the new plug will need to be the next metric size up.
As you've been advised, greasing the tap will remove 90% of the swarf with it......pouring some fresh oil into the engine will probably flush out the rest of it.
If you want to fit a new sump, it should be easy enough so long as there isn't a crossmember in the way - preventing the sump from lowering.
Sumps don't always need gaskets these days, but they do require a high temperature silicone sealant......I use Wurth stuff.
John

 

[Lower]

Hi

Are these the kits on ebay that comes with about 6 different sizes? Do they need to be tapped in or are they simply screwed in as a normal sump plug would be ? thanks

The kits i've seen come with a few spare sump plugs, so probably yes.

You get a tap and some spare sump plugs that match the thread size of the tap. You simply screw the tap into the sump plug hole and it cuts new threads to a larger size. Then you use one of the sump plugs and washers that come with the kits and bin your old plug.

You do need to know how to use a tap though.

 

[Rightboy91]

Initially you will need to find out what size the sump plug is before you can think about tapping a thread for a new one. So, either you take the old plug out for measuring or you buy a new plug from a supplier.
If the thread in the sump is stripped then the new plug will need to be the next metric size up.
As you've been advised, greasing the tap will remove 90% of the swarf with it......pouring some fresh oil into the engine will probably flush out the rest of it.
If you want to fit a new sump, it should be easy enough so long as there isn't a crossmember in the way - preventing the sump from lowering.
Sumps don't always need gaskets these days, but they do require a high temperature silicone sealant......I use Wurth stuff.
John

I had a look in the haynes manual whic rates the difficulty level at 4/5 and alsi I did a quick google search, apparently on these 1.9 vectras it is quite a job and some say the subframe may need removed for access, also it says something about turning crank bolt in order to do something with flywheel in order to be able to gain access to remove sump bolts ?

I will try find out from euro car parts what size it is, then do I ask for thr next size up ? I think it is a 15 mm bolt with ratchet but do you mean the overall size as in the width and lenth or the bolt ?

Is using the tap as easyas youtube shows it to be ? Just screw the tap in and then unwind it ? thanks

 

[Rightboy91]

The kits i've seen come with a few spare sump plugs, so probably yes.

You get a tap and some spare sump plugs that match the thread size of the tap. You simply screw the tap into the sump plug hole and it cuts new threads to a larger size. Then you use one of the sump plugs and washers that come with the kits and bin your old plug.

You do need to know how to use a tap though.

hi
So the ones that come with multiple different plugs say a lot of 6, are all 6 sump bolts the same size ? ( if so why do they sell 6 the same ? )

Is it as simple as it loois on youtube, simply screw it in level as possible then unwind it ? are these prone to leak afterwards or are thy a perfect solution ?
thanks

 

[Burnerman]

It sounds like you need to forget about removing the sump, at least at this stage.
The diameter you need to find is the threaded part of the plug, and then use the next size up.
Using a tap is completely straight forward although you will need a tap wrench to grip the end of the tap ideally.....you need to keep it square in the hole.
Basically the technique is to turn the tap in clockwise so it starts cutting the thread, and then backing off a fraction so the swarf produced is cut off by the tap......I'd say for this diameter, 1/2 turn in, then back off 1/4 turn, and continue.
John

 

[Rightboy91]

It sounds like you need to forget about removing the sump, at least at this stage.
The diameter you need to find is the threaded part of the plug, and then use the next size up.
Using a tap is completely straight forward although you will need a tap wrench to grip the end of the tap ideally.....you need to keep it square in the hole.
Basically the technique is to turn the tap in clockwise so it starts cutting the thread, and then backing off a fraction so the swarf produced is cut off by the tap......I'd say for this diameter, 1/2 turn in, then back off 1/4 turn, and continue.
John

Thank you John.

here is a link for apparently the correct oil sump plug for my car .https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oil-Drai...884765?hash=item56cfd2c75d:g:uZsAAOSwa~Nd1lI0
so what size up should I be looking for ?

How far do I go with the tap shouod it go all the way in or only so far, how will I know when it has gone enough in ?

I am really hoping a new oil plug will solve the problem but after how tight I had to turn it to get the plug in last time I feel worried ti may not be as straight forward but I need to change the oil now as it's been almost 18 miles since last oil change and car is high mileage at almost 200k.

thanks

 

[DIYspanner]

Why was it so tight to screw back in?

 

[Rightboy91]

Why was it so tight to screw back in?

A - Either the oil sump bolt cross threaded
B- stripped threads inside the sump.

As I say on the last oil change when undoing the drain plug I had it on tighten instad of loosen , but after I realised and turned ratchet to anti clockwise the plug came out without effort.
However when putting the plug back in after oil change it was very tight going back in

 

[Lower]

hi
So the ones that come with multiple different plugs say a lot of 6, are all 6 sump bolts the same size ? ( if so why do they sell 6 the same ? )

Is it as simple as it loois on youtube, simply screw it in level as possible then unwind it ? are these prone to leak afterwards or are thy a perfect solution ?
thanks

They sell multiple sump plugs with the kit because the kit is design for trade use.

Its not the perfect solution because it means you have a non standard sump plug. But for a car that's already done 180,000 miles, its a good solution.

As per Burnman's post, its really important that you get the tap in straight and that you do a half turn forward and then 1/4 turn back. The tap is slightly tapered, so you'll feel when you've got the tap through all the way because once the thread is fully cut the resistance to winding it in will reduce substantially. I'd would keep winding the tap fully back out after 2 or 3 full turns to clear the swarf out of the grease that i suggested you put in on the tap. It'll help reduce the risk of swarf getting into the engine.

If you know what you're doing its a straight forward job. But if you've never used or seen someone use a tap before, i strongly suggest you do a bit of you tubing before you start.

 

[Rightboy91]

They sell multiple sump plugs with the kit because the kit is design for trade use.

Its not the perfect solution because it means you have a non standard sump plug. But for a car that's already done 180,000 miles, its a good solution.

As per Burnman's post, its really important that you get the tap in straight and that you do a half turn forward and then 1/4 turn back. The tap is slightly tapered, so you'll feel when you've got the tap through all the way because once the thread is fully cut the resistance to winding it in will reduce substantially. I'd would keep winding the tap fully back out after 2 or 3 full turns to clear the swarf out of the grease that i suggested you put in on the tap. It'll help reduce the risk of swarf getting into the engine.

If you know what you're doing its a straight forward job. But if you've never used or seen someone use a tap before, i strongly suggest you do a bit of you tubing before you start.

Thank you for this.

Yes my car is high mileage at 198,000 + miles, hence the reason for an over due oil change . It drives brilliantly and I would like it to remain that way so an oil change is definately a good idea.

I understand the tap must be straight, do I have to judge this by eye level ? would you do 2 or 3 full turns or would you do as Burmans advised and half turn forward, quarter out ? what exactly do you cover the end of the tap in to get the swarf to stick to it ??

I will be researching this for a few days until trying it out if the new replacement of the original plug does not go back in. IS this solution a pefectly gurananteed fix without a risk of any leaks ?

regards

 

[Stivino]

I'm sure that's an aluminium sump and the plug goes into the side at the back.
Maybe these you tube videos will help you.

 

[Burnerman]

Your sump is aluminium so cutting a new thread in it won't be a problem.....the tap should be tapered so it will self guide to a degree.
We've no idea what thread the old plug is though.....so its either getting the info from somewhere or buying one and measuring it with a vernier gauge.
John

 

[johnny2007]

If you decide to retap the sump, use WD40 as lubricant.
Once you finish, hoover the hole with a Henry.
Then pour some diesel from the oil cap to clear the rest of the shavings.
A couple of litres will clear the lot.

 

[DIYspanner]

To clear any swarf from the sump after tapping, how about a length of hose pipe pushed up into the sump hole and diesel poured directly to the sump to avoid diesel all over the engine. If the sump pan is the one I think it is, looking at those listed on ebay, the sump plug is at the bottom of a well so any swarf should easily wash out.