I got my hands on a multimeter.
Top and bottom elements read 19 and 18 ohms. So I figured it must be the timer.
So I did continuity testing across live in on timer and live out on timer for both elements. Tested switching of main element(bottom element) and boost element (top one). Continuity worked as it should. i.e. only beeped me when respective element was in switched on mode by the main dial or boost dial. So timer switching looks 100% fine.
Neutral continuity test in timer beeped all the time so its pass through with no switching.
So now I'm confused. Elements read OK and timer switching reads OK. What a B****R.
So next test was to swap the live out leads from the timer with each other so that top element becomes main and bottom element becomes boost.
With just the top element connected it trips the main RCD switch when timer is in on time period or when booster switch is on.
So disconnected top element and re-connected bottom element (timer live out leads still swapped). Now no RCD tripping. Bottom element comes on when booster switching is on. So booster switching is not causing a problem and is working fine
So after all this testing it seems IT MUST BE TOP ELEMENT which is faulty even though its ohms reading is as expected, i.e. 19ohms.
So what do you think?
Next question is how do I know what length element to order? The top element is a heatrae sadia Gold Dot and has NO model number/markings on it. The bottom element is a Redring P14T. Are they normally both same length? Thermostat is 7 in so I'm guessing 11in or 14in element.
TIA
Top and bottom elements read 19 and 18 ohms. So I figured it must be the timer.
So I did continuity testing across live in on timer and live out on timer for both elements. Tested switching of main element(bottom element) and boost element (top one). Continuity worked as it should. i.e. only beeped me when respective element was in switched on mode by the main dial or boost dial. So timer switching looks 100% fine.
Neutral continuity test in timer beeped all the time so its pass through with no switching.
So now I'm confused. Elements read OK and timer switching reads OK. What a B****R.
So next test was to swap the live out leads from the timer with each other so that top element becomes main and bottom element becomes boost.
With just the top element connected it trips the main RCD switch when timer is in on time period or when booster switch is on.
So disconnected top element and re-connected bottom element (timer live out leads still swapped). Now no RCD tripping. Bottom element comes on when booster switching is on. So booster switching is not causing a problem and is working fine
So after all this testing it seems IT MUST BE TOP ELEMENT which is faulty even though its ohms reading is as expected, i.e. 19ohms.
So what do you think?
Next question is how do I know what length element to order? The top element is a heatrae sadia Gold Dot and has NO model number/markings on it. The bottom element is a Redring P14T. Are they normally both same length? Thermostat is 7 in so I'm guessing 11in or 14in element.
TIA