Impact/contact adhesive with time to move

[ETAF]

Hi
I'm looking for some contact adhesive which gives a little time to move.

I used mitre Adhesive from screwfix - before
https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-mitre-adhesive-200ml/41795
Which has been fine, except for one bit that i placed slightly in the wrong place and just needed to move 3mm !!!!!!

Will be using 8mmx95mm finished redwood and gluing around all the edges of Hardboard doors.
Creating a bit of a feature to these very plain doors, Which are smaller than standard doors - so not easy to replace

have 7 to do.

Any suggestions on how to glue , I didn't really want to clamp each one and wait 24 hours , using something like PVA, i dont have that many clamps (12) , and when seen done on youtube they use 4 or more clamps per edge!!!

The mitre glue worked fine on some panelling I put in a cloakroom , on doors & cupboard - Just this one bit that i missed with a Jig etc !!!!!!!

Wife said, she was told to put wallpaper paste into the contact adhesive which gave time to move a little

Thanks

 

[Tigercubrider]

Contact adhesive specifically does what it says on the tin.
Afaik you can reposition wet contact adhesive, without the normal flash off time

What about gripfil or similar

 

[ETAF]

Afaik you can reposition wet contact adhesive, without the normal flash off time

Thanks, A lot seem to say , instant fix on contact, which i seem to have experienced in the past with bostic.
Which have you used that allowed time, I know of KENT Clear Bond that allows about 90 seconds - BUT no idea where to purchase

 

[Deleted member 174758]

You could go for a fast setting D4 PVA which has an open time of about 10 minutes. Old fashioned hide glue was great for this sort of thing as it was heated to apply and set as it cooled. Reversible as well (just reheat). Nearest modern equivalent, depending on lipping thickness, might be glue film, which is activated by a dry iron and can be heat reactivated if you mess up and need to move stuff.

TBH in site work we often resort to glueing with the addition of a few 18ga pins to keep everything aligned while the glue goes off (veneer pins will do the same sort of thing without the need for a nail gun). The 18ga pins are punched under and filled when the glue has set. Veneer pins you just pull out. On clear finished the pin holes can be filled with coloured wax (e.g Liberon) after the stain and/or clear finish has been applied and set

 

[ETAF]

Thanks for the info,
Seems that D4 is readily available in toolstation, so may go down that route , and hammer and nails, into the frame, although need to add the frame to the bottom of the door , as the ones i have taken off are just hardboard.

i had thought of getting a nail gun a few weeks ago for this sort of thing, along with a few other projects I have in mind, but then forgot all about it for this application.

The prices for 2nd fix guns turned out to be quite expensive and the cheap electric / battery ones i saw on youtube, left quite a mark in the wood.

Spoke to a couple of places and they all talked about Air Guns but don't have air compressor.
maybe i should add the Nail gun to the Plunge saw etc on my , maybe it would be nice list.

If it sets off in 10mins, then I can also clamp

Thanks again

 

[Deleted member 174758]

If you are only doing small quantities of pinning you could always go retro and get yourself a (second hand) rampin and a few packets of panel pins......

 

[ETAF]

good idea, i have one of those , but its broken, tried it a few weeks back on a DIY project, used a while back when making wardrobes/drawers for the back - good idea , rampin I didn't know what it was called and could not find a replacement quickly

crown seem to make one , around £17ish axminster - draper seem to be poor quality , and spear and jackson

i will have to look into the reviews , see if i can find a quality one - although its going into 8mm panel & not hardboard, which i have used it before with panel pins.
I have a bit of the old redwood over from a previous job, so will see if it will push through that OK with no mark.

I'll also have to have a better look at the one i have, and see if fixable

great shout , thanks

 

[Deleted member 174758]

For anyone unfamiliar with them, this:

is a rampin. It's basically a tube with a spring returned sliding drive pin inside it that has a knob on the end of it. You pop panel pin into the tube where it is (sometimes) held by a magnet, position the pin where you want to drive it in push down on the top of the knob to drive the pin in and the spring returns the drive pin to the start position. If it doesn't quite sink the pin you can always finish off with a hammer and appropriate size nail set. May sound slow, but in the days before 2nd fix nail guns it was faster than setting dozens of pins by hand not to mention greatly reducing the chances of mashing a finger or thumb with a hammer. At one time there mist have been half a dozen firms making them

 

[ETAF]

heres mine, but it is broke, the Pins , even long ones at around 2" dont come out - whatever holds them in at the back has gone - so i push all the way and the pin is still inside.
I seem to remember a bit of a kick as you pushed down as well, I did a lot of small 2ft high T&G around a lean too - i think in the 90's with it

Anyway - seen a spear & jackson one on amazon looks OK so may get that , next time i order

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Just PM me an address and I'll pop that one I pictured in a jiffy bag to you. It's going spare as it came to me as part of a job lot of tools in any case - and I can only use so many rampins

It isn't perfect, but it works

 

[ETAF]

wow , thats so kind of you