Incorporating a doormat into my wooden floor

[Snowbound]

Hi all. I'm in the process of laying some new engineered oak boards directly onto my pine sub-floor. I'm going to leave a rectangular space to place a doormat so that it is flush with the floor. Can anyone tell me what type of mouldings will look best when "framing" the mat and how I should go about it.... many thanks.

 

[GHFlooring]

what i would do is got a ramp profile and screw the plastics down were the required matwell is going then mitre the corners of the ramp profile to the desired square fit the rubber backed mat the put the profile into the plastic and all done

 

[Snowbound]

what i would do is got a ramp profile and screw the plastics down were the required matwell is going

Where do the plastics come in? I was going to lay the mat onto a piece of ply or is this a bad idea?? Would you say a ramp profile is the best one to use?.... many thanks.

 

[WoodYouLike]

There are various systems for thresholds on the market. some come with a plastic base you have to screw down first and then attach the threshold into.
That's the one GHFlooring is talking about.

another solutions would be to use a so-called 'End' thresholds, a kind of L-profile that sits on top of the mat and where the lip lays on top of the wood floor. You can either pin down or glue down this lip to the wooden floor.

 

[Symptoms]

Snow - another option is the use brass angle. One edge is screwed into the sub-floor in the well and is covered by the matt so all you see from above is a thin (3 - 4mm thick) line of brass. A tip - make sure that matt you use is a 'standard' size, 'cos 5 to 10 years down the line when you come to replace it you'll have trouble getting one if it's not standard.

When we fashion matt wells or access traps in timber floors we lay the floor, THEN cut through the boards with a plunge saw, then trim to size with a router (if a sharp corner is needed, say for the brass, a corner chisel knocks out the radius left by the router cutter).