Inspection mirror for soldering joints

[Jupiter01]

I am after one of these and unsure on what they are called and what i should be searching for. Any suggestions or recommendations on one please?
I want to be able to check behind and underneath fittings to make sure that they have been soldered correctly.

Secondly, any recommendations on a soldering mat as my current one from toolstation is in tatters.

Tanks in advance.

 

[Madrab]

Telescopic inspection mirror

I've had my rothy soldering mat for years, starting to get a bit threadbare now but it's stood the test of time, are they the same these days ... that's another question.

 

[ianmcd]

I have only been doing this for 39 years and never needed a mirror, maybe I should get one, is there not an APP I can download for this ?

 

[Jupiter01]

@ianmcd hats off to you
Why does my solder fizzle out on some of the joints? I think it's overheating but would appreciate your views.
I do clean the fittings and pipe, I wipe off excess solder and try not to go crazy on the flame.

Also, when this does happen, how do I rectify it.

 

[Burnerman]

If the solder fizzes then there's a little too much flux which is boiling off.
Don't overheat the joint, just enough to see the solder start to flow - keep the heat on for a little longer and the solder will flush right round the pipe.
If I'm using end fed, I keep the end of the solder wire dipped in the flux.
John
Edit....Bakers Fluid was always my favourite but I guess its not green enough now

 

[Jupiter01]

If it has fizzed, do we wait for it cool and go at it again or does the join need to removed, cleaned, fluxed and then soldered?

 

[footprints]

I have had a mirror like Madrab shows in the bag for years (keep it in an old slide in glasses case) would not be without it.
Also bought a sexy one from amazon with a light in it don't know how long it will last but it works well.

 

[Burnerman]

If it has fizzed, do we wait for it cool and go at it again or does the join need to removed, cleaned, fluxed and then soldered?

When you have started heating the joint, keep at it.....the flux will boil away and the solder will then run.
You shouldn't have any issues with 15mm stuff, but 22mm tees for example may be more difficult.....success there rather depends on the torch you use.
John
Edit - in the 'bad' old days (read good) I've used ersin multicore electronics solder......60/40% tin lead with 5 cores of flux. Never beaten! These days, with the absolute miniscule of lead contamination I'm really surprised we are all still alive.
J.

 

[Jupiter01]

Does that mean that when it starts to fizz, I keep heating it until the fizzing stops and then apply the solder?

 

[Burnerman]

Yes, that’s about it....
Its a common fault to overheat the fitting - the flux is no longer active and oxidisation is the result.
I’d probably recommend solder ring fittings (‘yorkshires’) if you are just starting out.
John

 

[nwgs]

Warm the pipe on the opposite side to the one you are running the solder into.

That way you know it’s hot all the way round.
If the copper starts to discolour too quickly your torch is too hot

 

[Stadan20]

Doesn’t some cowboy use these mirrors instead of taking a gas fire and closure plate out ???

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Cheap makeup mirror from the pound shop is doing good service so far. Plasterboard offcuts are handy for keeping heat off timber and cables and similar...

 

[nwgs]

I’ve got a bit of backer board. Works a treat