Installing a electric hob and cooker

[lyncon]

ok we are new ti this and we need to check a few things ,
First of all we cant seem to see on the oven which we have purchased with a second kitchen the amp of it all we can see is the volts ,
so how would we work it out what hob we would have to buy , also at present we have a ordinary slimline cooker which is pluged in and a switch on the side to put the cooker on ,
Can we put the oven and hob into the same connection as what it is now , or does it have to be separate ,

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

First of all we cant seem to see on the oven which we have purchased with a second kitchen the amp of it all we can see is the volts

There should be a plate with the output printed on it, they can be found at the rear or side casing of the appliance or sometimes on the internal of the door.
If there is no evidence of this you would require to find out the make and model of the unit or read the manufacturers instruction as the info can often be found there also.

so how would we work it out what hob we would have to buy

Now that's a question!
Do you know what circuits you have and whether they are capable of supporting a load for the hob, often electric hobs require at least a 20A circuit, unless it was a gas hob then you would only require a small current to support any electronics and the ignition.

at present we have a ordinary slimline cooker which is pluged in and a switch on the side to put the cooker on

Not uncommon

Can we put the oven and hob into the same connection as what it is now , or does it have to be separate

You can have dual connection, but the circuit must be able to support the load safely. Without kow these factors it would be difficult for you to select appliances and you may also have to update the circuit to a higher cable size with a suitable breaker size.
Sorry for being so vague, but without the right information it would be hard to offer proper guidance.
You need to find out whether the existing cooker circuit is a dependant circuit, then the size of cable and the size of the device protecting this circuit. Then you can be informed on what that circuit can support safely.

 

[lyncon]

Thankyou for replying what i have found out is that the over we want to put in is 40w ,
I have now found out that my circuit box for cooker is 400v , is that any help this help with any of my questions above now

 

[ericmark]

Think you have miss read the data plate. Could be watts or Kw or amps the volts should be 220 to 240 volt that should be standard.

With second hand oven do be careful to get insulation tested before fitting. As elements are hygroscopic and if stored can absorb water causing the RCD to trip.

As to size of hob the debate could go on for weeks. With for example an induction hob all power goes into the pan so it needs less power to cook the same thing as a halogen hob which in turn is still better than a hot plate type. We talk about diversity and in practice one can allow a greater diversity with induction than with hot plate type but the books do not recognise this and give the same allowance for all.

So there is a difference between rating of hob and what a hob on average draws. So question has to be what happens if you get it wrong. If correct fuse or MCB fitted it will open failing safe the only slight worry is with ovens since the carcase is not made by same people as oven after tripping it could over heat as no cooling fans. Although unlikely. So assuming correctly wired no real problem even if hob is too big it fails safe.

There are specials designed for restricted supply which can be configured for 13A, 16A or 32A supply seem to remember Siemens make one some form of power sharing.

Again cooking methods also vary I have seen where a chef never changes setting on hob just altered which pan and how much of the pan is in contact with the hot plate and I never turn off the hob when removing the pan to do things like add water however with an induction hob the hob auto turns off and back on with return of pan.

Using functions like auto boil then simmer likely I use less power than when it needed manual intervention and I have always turned down the power when food starts to boil. My hob has knobs which offer far better control than with silly touch controls I can alter setting in seconds with touch controls it takes multi touches to alter so are as a result slow to use and people tend to be lazy and not alter setting when boiling a little on high side as so hard to use. Look good but not practical.

Speed of the hob to some is not important. And although my hob can deliver a massive 3.7kW to just one area in practice it is very rare to need so much power. It can beat the kettle boiling the same amount of water but when do you want to boil water on a hob in the main there is food as well and at that rate everything would burn onto the bottom of the pan so boost is rarely used.

I love my induction and would never go back but they are not cheap.

 

[lyncon]

Thankyou for reply will look again and have a look again at hobs