Oven & Hob wiring....

[cjp2k]

Hi guys, I need some advice, we currently have a gas hob and electric oven (oven rated to 2.8kw hard wired and the hob connected to a 5amp fused spur for the spark)

The oven has died and needs replacings, the kitchen is about 14 years old looks dated but the wiring is upto standard AFAIK.

The mrs wants a new silver oven instead of white, which means we need to change the hob too... she also wants a induction hob...

We have the current oven hard wired to the cooker switch which is protected by a 32amp MCB in the CU,

If we fit a 2.85kw oven and a 6/7 kw induction hob can these be both connected to the same cooker connection (not by myself by someone who knows what they are doing), or would we need new cables running to the CU etc,

The cooker switch does not seem to have any fuses on it...would we need to replace this aswell>

If we need to rewire I will either buy a replacement white oven or just get a silver gas hob and wait until we get the new kitchen to run wires..

Cheers

Chris

 

[ericmark]

Likely you can use the existing supplies but no one can be sure of that without looking at the installation.

I have a Belling standalone double oven and induction hob which the manufacturer says needs a 32A supply.

The Belling FSE60i is rated at 10466 - 12455 W. So could draw 54A well over the B32 MCB which feeds it. Been in for some time now it has never taken out the trip.

It is all dependent on what the manufacturer and electrician says. There is no real answer to the question sorry.

 

[EFLImpudence]

We have the current oven hard wired to the cooker switch which is protected by a 32amp MCB in the CU,

If we fit a 2.85kw oven and a 6/7 kw induction hob can these be both connected to the same cooker connection (not by myself by someone who knows what they are doing), or would we need new cables running to the CU etc,

From what you say - yes, connect both with 4mm² flex.

]The cooker switch does not seem to have any fuses on it...would we need to replace this aswell

No, it's just a switch - for use in an emergency.

 

[cjp2k]

Thanks guys, the "advice" I have had in currys etc has been shocking...just out of interest is fitting a new oven part p? I was told I had to get thieir fitters to install as a report has to be sent to local council...I smelt a rat but could be wrong

Obviously I wont try and connect both a hob and oven myself but a oven I can manage.

If we got a unit that can run on a 13amp plug can we just cut the plug and hard wire...would I need some sort of 13 amp fuse inline? According to currys I dont but seemed strange to me....

 

[EFLImpudence]

is fitting a new oven part p? I was told I had to get thieir fitters to install as a report has to be sent to local council...I smelt a rat but could be wrong

No, not notifiable.
I would recommend employing a registered electrician to test the circuit and install.
Curry's (and other shops) will turn up but refuse to do it unless everything is completely straightforward and what they are used to.

If we got a unit that can run on a 13amp plug can we just cut the plug and hard wire...would I need some sort of 13 amp fuse inline? According to currys I dont but seemed strange to me....

Yes but no need for a fuse if you use 4mm² flex.

The supplied (smaller) flex may be acceptable but certain conditions must be met which the 'proper' electrician will (should) be able to determine.

As I said, I doubt Currys will be willing to do this.

 

[cjp2k]

Thanks again...last question, bosch do a induction hob with a 13amp plug...is this any good or is it underpowered..

Its nice and cheap and thinking I could run it to the fused spur and stick a 13amp fuse in there...

Cheers

Chris

 

[EFLImpudence]

I have no personal experience but would imagine it to be more 'limited' than 'underpowered' as such.

That is, the current will be controlled between elements.
I don't know how much this will affect an induction hob.

 

[flameport]

Wire the new hob to the cooker connection.

Connect the new oven to the fused spur, change the fuse to 13A.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Sorry, I missed that you had a fused spur.

 

[cjp2k]

We have both fused spur and cooker connection, we are looking at a couple of ovens most need hard wiring (neff and bosch) one has a plug cant remember the make... trying to find the best option to keep the mrs happy and keep my costs down

We have a gas pipe at the back of the cooker and currently only neff and bosch fit, but if we get a electric hob we can get the gas engineer to move the pipe out of the way....

 

[Martynrosscampbell]

If we got a unit that can run on a 13amp plug can we just cut the plug and hard wire...would I need some sort of 13 amp fuse inline? According to currys I dont but seemed strange to me....

Yes but no need for a fuse if you use 4mm² flex.

The supplied (smaller) flex may be acceptable but certain conditions must be met which the 'proper' electrician will (should) be able to determine.

As I said, I doubt Currys will be willing to do this.[/quote]


Surely removing the fuse protection in the plug and replacing it with 4mm flex isn't good advice? This would mean the 2kw appliance would only be protected bya 30a/32a device? Only reason i question this is because ive heard something similar before and presumed they (my boss, experienced electrician) had got it wrong!

 

[EFLImpudence]

Surely removing the fuse protection in the plug and replacing it with 4mm flex isn't good advice? This would mean the 2kw appliance would only be protected bya 30a/32a device?

No, the fuse is there to protect the cable.

So, with a 32A mcb you should use cable which can handle more than 32A.

It doesn't matter what you put on the end of the cable - as long as 32A or less - because it will not draw more current than it needs.

As alluded to earlier, for this reason, actually the cable need only be sufficient for the load but I don't like advising that on the forum because other conditions must be met and you (nor Currys, I suspect) will not be able to test without the proper equipment.

 

[echoes]

The fuse in the plug is to protect the flex, not the appliance against fault current. So 4mm² flex would be adequately protected by a 30 or 32A OPD.

There is no need to protect a fixed load that cannot overload the supply against overload. But it must be properly protected against faults (short circuits).

However, if you have an FCU handy, why not use it and then no need to consider replacing the supplied oven flex.

EDIT: bit slow again...