Insulating an old home with uneven walls & original features

[ripperuk]

Thanks wobs and Brigadier.

I actually don't plan to replace any windows, however I plan to place a double glazed glass panel on the inside to reduce heat from escaping.

Regarding Dew point - Please tell me if this sounds silly, but what if I drilled some holes in the plasterboards after insulating to allow the walls to breath?

Also what do I do regarding fixing heavy-dutty shelves on a wall that has insulation?

Thanks again

 

[HawkEye244]

@FRAN1870 - Was this an end or mid terrace? Don't forget mine is a detached house with 4 external walls, which means a lot more heat loss.

@HawkEye244 - Sounds like a brilliant job you did, but I'm not sure if I could do this as I'd need to do internal. Also with a fireplace that I'll be using, how would I protect the insulation from catching on fire? Have a look at the first picture of the external red house....can you see how the fireplace chimney is protruding out of the wall like an arch? How can you insulate this?

@Brigadier - I've already got plans to do these because in my opinion, majority of the heat loss is being lost from the 4 external walls and a large amount from the reception rooms floors as the cellar ceiling has zero insulation

Haha no I meant external walls as in the internal side of the external wall. I don't think the insulation will be close enough to the radiation of the heat to be any problem, it's on the walls and not in front.. if it were a problem you would have the plastered walls near the fireplace with burn marks... it never gets that hot.

Haha that's brilliant. Now two questions:-

1. How do I insulate that red curved wall within the fireplace?
2. Normally it's easy to screw heavy duty shelves onto brick walls, but how would I be able to put up heavy duty shelves with insulated/plasterboarded walls?

Thermaline is so bendable due to it being mostly polystyrene here http://www.totemtimber.co.uk/product/warmline-eps-thermal-laminate-plasterboard-2400x1200x40mm

9.5mm of plasterboard, 30mm polystyrene it can easily be pushed into curves etc. I found it could bend near enough 90 degree angles before fracturing.

As for heavy duty shelving, you would drill through the wall in the normal manner but you would make sure the plug is pushed through the warmline flush with the blockwork, so that the blockwork is taking the load of the shelf and not the thermaline... similar for how you would fit joinery/radiators to a tiled bathroom, you would always make sure to bed the plug into the wall so that the pressure is taken off the surface of the tile.

Personally I can't see any downsides and it's cheap.

I used this for the fixing http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p60449?table=no


p.s thermaline/warmline are the same thing I keep mixing them both up

 

[ripperuk]

Thermaline is so bendable due to it being mostly polystyrene here http://www.totemtimber.co.uk/product/warmline-eps-thermal-laminate-plasterboard-2400x1200x40mm

9.5mm of plasterboard, 30mm polystyrene it can easily be pushed into curves etc. I found it could bend near enough 90 degree angles before fracturing.

As for heavy duty shelving, you would drill through the wall in the normal manner but you would make sure the plug is pushed through the warmline flush with the blockwork, so that the blockwork is taking the load of the shelf and not the thermaline... similar for how you would fit joinery/radiators to a tiled bathroom, you would always make sure to bed the plug into the wall so that the pressure is taken off the surface of the tile.

Personally I can't see any downsides and it's cheap.

I used this for the fixing http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p60449?table=no

p.s thermaline/warmline are the same thing I keep mixing them both up

Thanks HawkEye.

1. I assume thermaline/warmline plasterboard would go on top of the battens and in between them there would be further insulation, such as celotex/kingspan or do I not need any insulation because the plasterboard alone does the job?

2. If the plasterboard alone is enough, then how much difference does this make in terms of u-value and how does this compare to other methods such as external/cavity?

3. Also what about the moisture/dew problem? What can I do to avoid it?

4. Is there a video you can recommend, so that I can follow it step-by-step?