Integrated Appliances

R

ryanj

I have got a fridge and a freezer fully integrated into my kitchen (ie. they have a "cupboard" door on them, and you couldn't tell it was a fridge unless you opened it.

I need to connect these up.. should I?

a) connect it to a socket in the nearby cupboard
b) connect it to a switchless socket behind it and up to a worktop FCU
c) connect it to a flex-outlet and up to a worktop FCU
d) something else.

Would it be the same for a removable washing machine?

Thanks!
 
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all those options are acceptable

another option if you don't want a fuse beind them but want to be able to remove them easilly for cleaning pest control repair etc is to use a fcu above the worktop feeding a 15A round pin socket behind the appliance

any wholesaler should be able to supply a 15A plug and socket
something like
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MKK772.html
tlc don't seem to have the plugs but it should't be too hard to source them
 
Go for option A assuming the socket forms part of you kitchen ring. No real reason to add a FCU for the operation of an intergrated appliance. I take it the appliances are vented correctly.
 
I'll assume the appliances are vented properly. They were installed as the instructions suggested.

I think i'll take route B, is there anything I should look out for doing that?

Also, the freezer will be run to it's own circuit protected by a 3amp MCB.

And everything else in the kitchen, run by a 32amp RCBO on it's own circuit, is there anything else that would prefer it's own circuit?

Thanks!
 
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ryanj said:
I think i'll take route B, is there anything I should look out for doing that?
Discrimination. If the appliance needs a 3A fuse, put that in the FCU and a 13A in the plug, so that if the fuse goes it's easy to replace.

Also, the freezer will be run to it's own circuit protected by a 3amp MCB.
That's OK for the startup surge of the fridge motor is it?

And everything else in the kitchen, run by a 32amp RCBO on it's own circuit, is there anything else that would prefer it's own circuit?
Electric hobs and large electric ovens.
 
If you intend to use a surface mounted box, make sure there will be enough space to get the appliance far enough back.
 
a dedicated cuircuit on a 3A mcb?!
you CANNOT just devide the kwh/year by the number of hours in a year

fridges and freezers draw a lot of power a small amount of the time NOT a steady small amount!
 
ryanj said:
I think i'll take route B, is there anything I should look out for doing that?
Personally I would run a trailing socket from the FCU to the rear of the fridge, and allow it to lie under the units. Pushing the fridge (or indeed any appliance) back on the plug is not the best idea. Certain appliances like a dishwasher that i saw recently, create a lot of heat on the rear (in this case enough to melt the plug) The space issue which somebody already pointed could also be a problem.
 
If there is an option, I personally dislike electrical connections behind appliances and always try and place them in cupboards.

The trouble today is some kitchens have so many built-in appliances and hardly any cupboards there is no choice.
 

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