Internal Breezeblock Walls - knocking down?

[Nerdella]

Hi
My first message here, I hope I get some friendly responses

Can anyone tell me whether we can do this ourselves or need a builder - we have a sixties house which was made with breeze block internal walls (!) and we want to knock out built in cupboards in one bedroom to create more space and also knock through into the next-door bedroom in preparation for creating an en-suite and dressing area there. (The cupboard walls are breeze block too). As long as the room wall in question isn't supporting (we will check) is this a job that 2 of us could do, with my husband wielding a sledge hammer etc? How do we get a proper neat finish to edges of breeze block without causing huge devastation to the rest of the walls? Am I nervous about this - yes!

Thanks for help and advice, especially from anyone who has already done this!

 

[kaseryn]

Hello and welcome to the forum More experienced ppl will no doubt have good advice on this, just thought i'd chuck my tuppeny in, as i plan to do the same thing to some of my internal walls soon. I don't see why you couldn't do the job between yourselfs, just perhaps be careful to try and avoid leaving too much overhanging you as you break through, or preferably remove from top downwards. As for the cut/finish.. i envisaged marking plumb lines where i want the cuts and running a grinder with a stone blade down them.. would be like a knife through butter and nice and neat.

 

[diyisfree]

If you are cutting through Thermolite or simular ( after you have ensured it isn't a supporting wall) I would use a simple old wood saw or the proper block saw NOT a grinder.

You obviously haven't seen how much dust they cause? (especially inside the house) and unless you use a 12" blade, it wont cut all the way through 4" block. not even a 9" grinder will go all the way through.

You would be surprised how easily even a wood saw goes through them.

Run a plumb line down but don't worry too much about the neatness as the door casing and architrave will hade quite a lot, or if you are just going to create corners with plaster, the angle beads again will create a neat corner for you.

Not an hard job for a keen diy'er.

If you do go the grinder route, Make sure you seal yourself in the room where it will be used. What i mean by this is tape all the door's so no dust can escape through the jams. and wear a face mask and goggles.

Oh forgot to say, take a good book to read so once you have finished using the grinder, you have something to do for the next 3 hours while the dust settles before you un seal the door

 

[kaseryn]

lol good point. It's bad enough using a sander in the house... how would you get in for that fist cut though?I suppose you'd have to knock some through to start.. as i'd just be making corners, i suppose i'd have to do that then angle across to the plumb line, or work loose a block that crosses it and put part of that back in later..

 

[diyisfree]

I would knock a few of the centre block out then knock one that may possible join at the edge of where the new opening will be. It doesnt matter if its slightly wider as once you have cut your blocks you will have plenty to piece up with.

Or you could drill a line of holes or chisel away a section to allow the saw in.

Thats the way i do it. Hope it helps.

 

[kaseryn]

Yep, sounds good thanks. As a side note, since you seem to know your breezeblock, i was thinking of putting a line of glass bricks vertically in one of these breeze block walls. I don't know what type or thickness they are [early to mid 70's build] but would you know wether i'm likely to be able to get a good match depthwise?

 

[diyisfree]

Most glass blocks are designed to be incorporated within a standard thickness wall. Most modern bricks and blocks and even the old Clinker blocks made from the ash from power stations are 4" wide with the exception of the old imperial bricks.

You state yours are breeze ( Thermoloite, toplite, celcon and so on) so you should be fine.

don't forget the steel reinforcing though. Most important with glass blocks, unless you are using one of the tailor made wooden frames.

 

[kaseryn]

Thanks for that. Steel reinforcing though? Glass blocks normally need some steel somewhere do they? These are all nonsupporting walls btw so i thought i'd be able to just plump them in there, no?

 

[diyisfree]

Sorry you will need rods, Unless you use the wooden frames available.

Take a look here

http://www.simplyglassblocks.co.uk/install_rods.html

Watch the video

 

[kaseryn]

I see.. but i'm only thinking of laying a single course..perhaps horizontally maybe vertically..so i wont really be able to use those will i. I might well frame it just for finish.. otherwise, what would you suggest for fixing to the wall it goes in.. just mortar? I mean, thats all thats holding the breeze anyway isnt it?

 

[diyisfree]

If you are going to do a simple horizontal line then thats fine.

However if you run these at the side of a door casing (as i have in the past) then you will need some sort of reinforcing.

Use the correct glass block mortar. Is is designed to flex slightly and alow expansion of the blocks so they wont crack.

Look at this http://www.johnbridge.com/images/chas1.jpg

Shows the rods in place whilst building

 

[kaseryn]

Smart.. i see what you mean. Watched that vdeo too.. i guess it all takes the supporting job away from the bricks so they wont crack. Is that one of your own projects? Thanks for the tips!

 

[diyisfree]

No not one of mine

But please take my recommendation regarding the rods.

 

[kaseryn]

I do mate, but as i say i'm only intending to makea single line of them.. so i guess the rods dont apply.. and i wouldn't be putting them next to a door either.

 

[Nerdella]

Hi
Thanks a lot for the helpful responses - I feel a bit more confident about it now!
Lynda