Internal Oak doors - advice please

[Croppy]

Hi,
I did a search, but couldn't find this exact subject in the archives ...

In our original Building Spec, we had internal solid pine doors with white deal door frames, architraves and skirting. We now want to change the internal doors to solid white oak. At this stage our W.D. door frames are fitted, skirting is fitted - but left loose for the timber flooring - and our architraves are delivered and stacked in the living-room.

I'm trying to decide whether at this stage we should replace all with matching white oak frames, architraves and skirting, before we go any further. I've sought advice from carpenters and painters but can't seem to arrive at any harmonious conclusion. So I guess our options are:

1. Fit all the White Deal, hang the oak doors, and hope that with varnish/stain, they'll look ok together.

2. Same as above, but paint all the white deal wood white.

3. Replace just the architraves and at least have matching doors and architraves. Leave the rest a la 1 above.

4. Pull out existing frames and skirting and fit all matching white oak (or oak-effect foil wrap)

We just want it to look ok. We came across a couple of rules of thumb along the way such as:
"You'll never stain a soft wood to match a hardwood";
"Match your architraves to your doors and your skirting to your floors" (We're putting down oak floors).

All advice welcome, as tradesmen so far seem to be reluctant to tell us what to do, but it's advice we're looking for!
Thanks!

 

[2scoops0406]

Well, obviously it's a matter of taste. This is my opinion. I would leave the architraves and skirting boards white, as this would provide a foil (how arty farty of me) for your beautiful new doors and floor. Too much wood, and you run the risk of it looking like a sauna !! Completely your choice though. My way is cheaper as well

 

[Scrit]

Fit all the White Deal, hang the oak doors, and hope that with varnish/stain, they'll look ok together.

They won't - the grain structure of softwoods and hardwoods is completely different. The pine will absorb the stain/varnish differently to ring-porous oak - stained pine almost always looks like, well.... stained pine which will be glaringly obvious next to stained oak..... If in doubt try a small area first and you'll see what I mean. If you want the door and frame to match the only way is put in matching oak door casings. Foil wrap (basically printed paper on MDF) works OK for kitchen cornices as it's too far away to inspect/view properly but it doesn't look as good as the real thing because it is smooth and has no physical open grain (unlike real oak) - to get a wrap with texture I believe you need to go to a vinyl wrapped profile. I'd also be concerned about it's durability. The two bits of advice you've been given - "You'll never stain a soft wood to match a hardwood" and "Match your architraves to your doors and your skirting to your floors" are fundamentally correct, but then I'm a very biased trade woodworker who prefers working with hardwoods.

Have you thought about graining (a paint effect)? Then it wouln't matter what the wood is.

Scrit

 

[blu3tang]

i would do #4

in the middle of doing it now.

heres some pics of the door.
underneath the frames its all pine, but when its finished you will see no pine.

You can see the pine in this one.

From the other side

 

[2scoops0406]

This is my point, absolutely no disrespect intended but for me, this is too much wood, I personally would prefer white skirtings and architraves. Only personal preference though. Those doors look good must admit.

 

[TIMBAWOLF]

Hi can some body tell me why it is that the hinge is in the centre of the door, as it is doing sweet nothing , only acting as a pivot!! it is offering NO support to the top hinge what so ever!
and as for the wood scenario, all Oak, oiled, no stain, as it has to be a matched set to look anything, foils, boils or what ever word a designer comes up with , will not work long term!!

 

[Scrit]

Hi can some body tell me why it is that the hinge is in the centre of the door, as it is doing sweet nothing , only acting as a pivot!! it is offering NO support to the top hinge what so ever!

Yes it is!!!! It is counteracting the tendency of Chinese oak to go banana shaped (you did say the door was from B&Q, didn't you?)

 

[big-all]

welcome timbawolf nice to see you here

 

[TIMBAWOLF]

HI GUYS!

and Scrit, that can only be the answer, cheap lumber!

looks like the damned things been Var@#shed as well

 

[Scrit]

Arghhhhhhh....... not the var@#sh!!!!!!

 

[blu3tang]

yep its varnish!

Its a clear satin non yellowing varnish.

I needed to seal the doors /oak frames.

I was hesistant in doing it, so i did a sample and it looked fine. I also tried matt clear varnish and it was ok too on a sample, but decided to go for the satin look.

also was advised to get 3 hinges per door (they are very heavy doors) not bought from B&Q! from a local door supplier

 

[TIMBAWOLF]

What the heck happened to oiling good wood!!! they grow with oils in them and they are water proof!!!

they don't grow with var@#sh on them!!!!! (or paint for that matter!!)

and contrary to popular belief, you actually spend more time re-doing a var@#shed door/window, than one which is oiled!!! and i know which one will out last the other!!!!

 

[Croppy]

Thanks for the photos. Call me stoopid, but I find it very hard to imagine what things are *going to* look like. Examples are what I need ....

Just one thing: Are you saying that those door frames are pine? So what you've done is varnished the visible part of the door frame to match your oak, and the rest of the door frame will be hidden by your oak door jambs and architraves? If so, then I could leave my white deal door frames in if I want to change to oak architraves (and door jambs) ...

They look good to me!

 

[Croppy]

Have you thought about graining (a paint effect)? Then it wouln't matter what the wood is.

Scrit

Scrit, never heard of this. So you're saying I can actually paint my white deal skirting to match the oak? This is an option then (if I understand correctly). Could you give an example of a graining product (brand-name) for me?

Thanks all.

 

[big-all]

another point to note

i am sure your furniture isnt naked steel

but just remember tannin in the oak attacks and corrodes steel
so you either need stainless or brass screws and fitting to prevent corrosion pitting and black stains