Is flex cable required in this case?

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Quick questions

Am I right in saying that you would use flex (as opposed to flat cable) if the cable is likely to be held, manipulated, moved around, outside etc?

I plan to fit a loft light and a part of me feels like I should be using Flex cable?

The other part of me thinks that I am overthinking things, being pedantic and should use regular flat twin & earth.
 
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What the hell?

I just clicked to post the thread and already got a reply :mrgreen:

You guys are amazing.

Obviously you need RCD protection on the circuit, earthing and bonding up to regs and test equipment
 
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Am I right in saying that you would use flex (as opposed to flat cable) if the cable is likely to be held, manipulated, moved around, outside etc?

If the cable will be moved around after installation, then flex should be used. T&E (flat cable) is much cheaper than flex, but has limited ability to be regularly be bent, so will eventually fracture.
 
There is no reason other than price why you can't use flex, caravans should be wired in flex as whole caravan flexes while being towed, and flex being round it seals better, but in the loft can't see there being much movement or problems with UV from sun light, or sealing on glands, and today you can get stuffing glands designed for twin and earth.

As to RCD protection not sure required with a surface mounted cable that does not supply a socket.
 
Circuits supplying luminaries were mandated to have RCD protection a couple of amendments ago
Oh so street lights now have RCD protection, makes sense seeing how many knocked over by vehicles, but wonder who resets them?

I would question the H&S aspect of having RCD protection in an area with no natural light. Which poses the greater danger, being plunged into darkness, or getting hold of as put in 13th edition lamps lamps installed in a room having a non-conducting floor, mounted at such a height that they cannot readily be touched and are out of reach of earthed metal.

OK that would not include loft lights as often low, but before 1966 they did not even need to be earthed.
 
Am I right in saying that you would use flex (as opposed to flat cable) if the cable is likely to be held, manipulated, moved around, outside etc?
There are various factors to consider.

1. T&E is not generally considered suitable for outdoor use because it's not UV stable and becase it's flat design means it doesn't seal well with glands. There doesn't seem to be an "outdoor T&E" among the regular UK cable types so an outdoor rated flex often ends up being the easiest options for outdoor work where armouring is not required.
2. Flex is flexible and designed to stand being moved around, the flip side of this though is that the flexibilty means you often need more cable restraint if you *don't* want it to move. T&E is better at staying where you put it.
3. Flex is in my opinion much more of a pain to strip, in particular it's far more of a pain to strip the sheath without damaging the inner insulation. T&E with it's uninsulated earth wire in the middle gives you a safe place to aim with your knife.
4. The fine stranded conductors in flex are prone to fuzzies when inserting into terminals. This can be a particular pain when doing wiring in awkward locations or when dismantling and reassmbling wiring. Some people use ferrules to avoid this but ferrules have their own issues. On the flip side solid wire can be prone to breaking if the core is "nicked" during stripping.
5. It's considered bad practice to mix solid wire with flex in the same terminal. So if you are going to use both solid wire and flex you need to think about the transitions between the two.
6. Flex looks better if the wiring will be exposed.

I plan to fit a loft light and a part of me feels like I should be using Flex cable?
It does depend a bit on what type of light you are going for. Some fittings are more suitable for T&E, some are more suitable for flex, and some come with a pre-wire non-removable flex tail that will need to be connected to your fixed wiring somehow.
 
Given that the T&E will presumably surface tacked rather than trunked, is this acceptable? Is it OK to just snap out a knockout on a back-box and stick a cable through, leaving gaps around it? I wouldn't do it personally, probably not a safety issue but would just look naff.

Metal clad switches, glands and flex would look vastly better and be dustproof sealed.

Flex would be much neater. Not expensive either, given the sort of load involved. Ferrules make a huge difference, the kits with the tool and 100s of assorted sizes are dirt cheap these days.
 
Given that the T&E will presumably surface tacked rather than trunked, is this acceptable? Is it OK to just snap out a knockout on a back-box and stick a cable through, leaving gaps around it?
IIRC BS7671 requires enclosures to meet IP4x on the top surface and IP2x on other surfaces. So if you want to go in from the top through a plain hole you have to be pretty careful about the size. If you come in through a surface other than the top you can be much sloppier.

And if the cable will be exposed you need to make sure it's adequately restrained so it doesn't get pulled out.
 
Circuits supplying luminaries were mandated to have RCD protection a couple of amendments ago
That is interesting. About 10 years ago I replaced the old consumer unit in my house with a nice new one and I used RCBOs for all the circuits, apart from the main lighting circuit. My logic was that when a tungsten filament lamp fails it often trips a RCBO or RCD and I don't like being plunged into darkness. I've been thinking of changing that MCB to a RCBO as I no longer have any tungsten filament lamps. I do wonder if I should to comply with the latest regs. (I know regs are not retrospective and I am not replacing my nice shiny plastic consumer unit which was perfectly acceptable when I fitted it, it is a lot better than the old pair of plastic consumer units with rewirable fuses that I replaced)
 

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