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Is it me or the paint that's too thick?

Discussion in 'Decorating and Painting' started by lump, 12 Jun 2011.

  1. joe-90

    joe-90

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    I get perfect results - what more do you need? And I can re-plaster the room too if need be. And renew all the windows, floors, doors, wall, ceilings, rads, lights.

    I guess that makes me a bit more useful than you then eh?
     
  2. TheDec

    TheDec

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    Reallly well perhaps you would care to offer some pics, seeing as you recommend the use of Satinwood on ceilings, which just happens to be a self undercoating product and dries with sheen like finish.

    Dec
     
  3. joe-90

    joe-90

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    Satinwood is brilliant for bathroom ceilings. It is impervious to condensation and mould doesn't seem to like it. If you haven't tried it - you won't know will you?
     
  4. TheDec

    TheDec

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  5. opps

    opps

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    I use paint pads regularly and have tried dozens of different brands,

    TBH the only ones I have imported are the ANZA ones- the rest are crap and not worth the money BUT I would never use then on walls- only on perfectly flat MDF.

    frankly I'd ignore Joe and take the Dec's advice- I don't always agree with the Dec (very subtle differences of opinion) but he knows what he is talking about. Joe works on the assumption that any fool can decorate, ergo he is implying that you are stupid for needing to ask.

    That said, sometimes Joe does give good advice- unfortunately not that often with regard to decorating...

    BTW cheap cutting in brushes- not a good idea. Look at Purdy as a minimum (imo). You want a brush that will retain its shape as you use it yet not drag the paint over the surface.
     
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  6. lump

    lump

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    Thanks for the input opps.

    Not sure if you are aware that Anza products are sold by B&Q. I got the Harris paint bug and found the large pad would only release the paint from the center as the plate curled in the middle.

    Ideally I would have taken Dec's advice on the brush but due to the surface area that needs painting I went with a roller.

    I got a £6 roller set from B&Q that broke within 30 mins, it came with 6 sleeves so I thought at least I have a few spare sleeves that can be thrown away after use. So I popped to Jewsons (much closer) and found all the rollers they sell would not fit my crappy sleeves! Whilst there I came across a 9" foam sleeve specifically for solvent based paints and thought I would have a go even though Dec stated foam is good in skilled hands.
    I got back home to find I could not get the foam to load equally, turns out the cheap tray from the B&Q set had a bow in the centre, I found an old tray Dad kept in the garage and it now works fine. The foam is between 1-2mm thick so I think it would be hard to overload, I found that I need to load the sleeve far more often but the paint goes on far easier than the cheap sleeves. The coat applied from foam is a lot thinner, I will need to do 2 coats but I am happy with that.

    I ended up with the "quality" brush from B&Q, I would have gone for a Purdy or better if I had known but I will just have to stick with what I have for now.
    I have noticed the coat looks a lot better the next day, there are only a few areas that look slightly uneven and was thinking about just going over those patched but I have a funny feeling the easy option will not be the best. Going to do another full coat :)

    Thanks for all the advice guys, it's been a big help.
    The Lump.
     
  7. lump

    lump

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    I also read on the web that a bucket and screen is a lot faster to use than a tray. I tried B&Q, Wicks and Jewsons and not one of them sell it! That can't be a specialist item, can it?
     
  8. opps

    opps

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    Hi lump- I never go to B&Q and thus didn't realise that they sell Anza- the problem is though that Anza own Hamilton Acorn and HA refuse to import the Anza pads because they have their own crap ones.

    Re- rollers in DIY stores- yep, they sell 1 1/4" diameter whereas proper ones are 1 1/2". No idea why there are two sizes.

    If ever you need cheap 9" trays.

    http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Painting+Decorating/Rollers+Poles/Roller+Trays+9/d150/sd3171/p90055

    The titan roller listed is ok

    http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Painting+Decorating/Rollers+Poles/d150/sd3171

    The only roller sleeves I buy are the Wooster and Purdy branded ones- they don't leave fluff behind. They work out at about a fiver each though.

    I prefer to use trays over buckets, unless I am up a ladder. Just my personal preference.
     
  9. joe-90

    joe-90

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    The difference is that I live in the real world and do this for a living. I've no idea what you do - if anything. Paint pads? How amateur can you get. :rolleyes:
     
  10. opps

    opps

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    Ok then Joe-it-all,

    How would you paint an 8 by 4 sheet of MDF on site and maintain even coverage and parallel tramlines???

    Your response to most painting questions is to "add more thinners". In the real world professionals try to understand the materials and products that they use.

    By starting from the position that "if you can p!$$ you can paint" you have created barriers to your ability to improve your quality of finish.

    I have spent years trying to provide a high quality finish, you stagnated the day that you discovered that you can add white spirit to paint. Funnily enough I too discovered that you can add solvents to paint to thin them on day one, but I didn't stop there.
     
  11. joe-90

    joe-90

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    I don't use MDF. Sorry, that's for bodge artists. Neither do I get tramlines. I know how to paint without tramline/brushmarks. It's all in the technique, nothing to do with thinning it down. You take all you silly additives and stick them wherever you like. :oops:
     
  12. DIYnot Local

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