Is it possible to terminate SWA inside this box?

[redpis]

How about usining one of these?

http://www.screwfix.com/p/20mm-25mm-galvanised-reducers-pk-2/89064

 

[EFLImpudence]

Then use a proper metal box.

Edited to make for easy earthing

 

[JohnW2]

If I pretend that the holes are 20 mm (they are in fact 28 mm), then the box won't be waterproof anymore? Sure, the chances of water splashing up into the gap is slim, but that's not the point, right?

You failed to mention that earlier

Eh? I agree that the OP didn't previously mention specific dimensions, but ...

...the problem is these weird rubber bungs that fill the holes in the junction box. If I remove the bung entirely, the hole is too large ....

Kind Regards, John

 

[JohnW2]

Then use a proper metal box.

Edited to make for easy earthing

.. with the caveat that it depends upon the situation. In a few situations, there would be a need/desire to not have a metal box (e.g. if one was wanting to prevent 'exporting of an earth' {via the SWA armour} into an outbuilding which was locally TT'd)

Kind Regards, John

 

[333rocky333]

If I pretend that the holes are 20 mm (they are in fact 28 mm), then the box won't be waterproof anymore? Sure, the chances of water splashing up into the gap is slim, but that's not the point, right?

You failed to mention that earlier

Eh? I agree that the OP didn't previously mention specific dimensions, but ...

...the problem is these weird rubber bungs that fill the holes in the junction box. If I remove the bung entirely, the hole is too large ....

Kind Regards, John

I apreciate that, john and i read that too, some people expect a thread rather than a 20mm+ hole, not realising the locknut and body just sandwich the box,, 28mm holes are not that common
From the picture I took that to be the case, obviously i was wrong, sorry

 

[EFLImpudence]

Then use a proper metal box.

Edited to make for easy earthing

.. with the caveat that it depends upon the situation. In a few situations, there would be a need/desire to not have a metal box (e.g. if one was wanting to prevent 'exporting of an earth' {via the SWA armour} into an outbuilding which was locally TT'd)

But then you would not want easy earthing.

 

[JohnW2]

But then you would not want easy earthing.

Indeed - which I why I thought that it was a bit of a generalisation (to which there are some exceptions) to give the 'easy earthing' an unqualified massive great green tick

Kind Regards, John

 

[EFLImpudence]

I couldn't find a small tick.

 

[JohnW2]

I couldn't find a small tick.

And nor could I find a way of making yours smaller, without downloading and editing

Kind Regards, John

 

[kai]

Buy a decent junction box, not the cheap tat with imperial sized holes sold by many places nowadays.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Eh? I agree that the OP didn't previously mention specific dimensions, but ...

...the problem is these weird rubber bungs that fill the holes in the junction box. If I remove the bung entirely, the hole is too large ....

Kind Regards, John

Yes - he wrote that AFTER he'd asked if he could use that box and AFTER HE ALREADY KNEW that the holes were too big for a gland.

 

[JohnW2]

Yes - he wrote that AFTER he'd asked if he could use that box and AFTER HE ALREADY KNEW that the holes were too big for a gland.

All very true, but irrelevant to the point I was making (to 333rocky333) - since the OP wrote it BEFORE 333rocky333's post which apparently was written without realisation that the holes were too big.

As for the dig at the OP that you're seemingly trying to have, I assume that (knowing the hole was too big) he was asking whether there was some sort of adapter he could use to install an SWA gland in an oversize hole - and, as you'd probably agree, although such adapters (or various bodges) do exist, it would be far better to use an appropriate box.

Kind Regards, John

 

[ericmark]

Have I missed something? That lid looks like a push fit. If it does not require a tool to remove the lid then likely can't use it anyway.

I hate using plastic so easy for the cable to warp the box so it's not water resistant.

I agree there are times when due to earthing requirements one has to use plastic but put a adaptor to enlarge to 25 or 28 mm and you still have metal not covered with the shroud.

 

[studentspark]

That box looks like it has 25-30mm holes you need 20 mm holes

Those rubber bungs can just be pulled out, so not really suitable as you can get access to the terminations

You can get another box for a couple of pounds.


http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Manufacturers/Wiska/Boxes_Adaptable_Moulded/index.html

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/WKEC308.html

Or as mentioned an adaptable box and cut a 20 mm hole

 

[JohnW2]

Have I missed something? That lid looks like a push fit. If it does not require a tool to remove the lid then likely can't use it anyway.

That's a good point, but it may be open to some debate - my experience of things like that is that unless one has fingernails made of cast iron, one usually does need a tool of some sort in order to prise the lid off!

I hate using plastic so easy for the cable to warp the box so it's not water resistant. I agree there are times when due to earthing requirements one has to use plastic but put a adaptor to enlarge to 25 or 28 mm and you still have metal not covered with the shroud.

That's also true. As for 'adaptors', it's obviously posible that just a pair of banjos (or other suitable washer) would be adequate - and one could even use (or improvise) a plastic washer for the outside to eliminate the problem to which you refer - but any such approach would really constitute a 'bodge'. Given that an 'appropriate' box would be so cheap, it would really seem the only sensible way to go.

Kind Regards, John